Luggage-transported walking holidays on La Palma

El Camino Real, La Ruta de la Costa, the GR130 or whichever name you like to give it, is the new way to go.  Yes, I can really see that his amazing and unforgettable, 8-day walk around La Palma will one day be the Mecca for any walker wanting a challenge and to immerse themselves in some of the most beautiful scenery imaginable.
Great then that all the work that was done in 2010 to clear the paths, put up new signs and generally give the whole route a massive make-over, has not been in vain.

Apart from the diehards who carry their huge rucksacks on their backs, a new trend is the luggage-transported holiday.  For anybody who doesn't know what this is, the idea is that your luggage is transported for you between accommodations and 'all' you have to do is the walking. When you arrive at your accommodation, your luggage is waiting for you.  The great thing is that you can pack all your creature comforts to have at hand after a long day's walk and you don't have to go the minimal route.
It has been said to me on a number of occasions however, that this is not really possible in La Palma due to the lack of suitable accommodation along the route.
Well, it might not always be easy to find but I am pleased to say that, in part also to a fabulous taxi company, our luggage-transported holidays are stepping out in style!

Exploring the Peaks of the GR131

This week, we were lucky enough to take a trip up to Roque de Muchachos and the observatories.  Although it is only 50 minutes away from the house by car, we still continue to be amazed by it!
The past week or so, we have had absolutely fabulous weather and the view up at the top of the island did not disappoint. Even Rocky the Raven was in fine form, doing his best to gain attention - and bread.

After a walk to the mirador which gives an impressive view down into the Caldera, walking back up to the Roque de Muchachos was also brilliant!

Path up the Roque de Muchachos

However, we were on a bit of a mission on this occasion, walking and exploring along the ridge and so set off in the Land Rover first of all passing the Mirador de los Andenes and then on past Pico de la Cruz and then towards Pico de la Nieve. Here we left the road and followed the forest track up towards the GR131.  After bumping along the track for a good ten minutes (not that good), we arrived at a flat area which serves as a car park.  Here we were at LP3 walking route which goes up to the GR131 and all the way down to Santa Cruz.

We decided to save the walk to the GR131 for another time and it's one to look forward to, up through the pine forests to emerge right at the Pico de la Nieve, Peak of the Snow.  Exciting or what!
Returning back to the road and towards the Pico de la Cruz we were struck by just how many walking trails there are that cascade down from the GR131. It is quite incredible and I don't think you could ever be stuck for an amazing walk on La Palma!

Near the Pico de la Cruz, we did stretch our legs a little more and walked up to the GR131.  It's a very short walk at just 0.5km and well worth doing.  In fact, there are a couple of viewing points and this is also where the LP7.8 goes down towards Los Tilos where we made our last walk and on to La Laguna and Barlovento.

On reaching the GR131, we had a fabulous view not just down into the Caldera but looking straight into the heart of the ravine as it goes towards Tazacorte and the sea. This is where rain water collects and begins its journey to the sea and is aptly named 'Fuente del Diablo' the Spring of the Devil.
Honestly - it's scary stuff!

Back at the Mirador de los Andenes where the GR131 touches the main road for just five metres, we were just in time to see walkers coming through Roberto's Wall. What a legend and what a wall - you can read about the legend here.

 

Yes, just another amazing day on La Palma.

The Ancient Laurisilva forest of Los Tilos, La Palma

It seems like a very long time since we 'hit the trail' and so, by way of mixing a walk with a little education, we decided upon a visit to the Los Tilos Visitor Centre and a walk through the ancient Laurisilva Forest, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve.

Although it's not so long since we were at the Centre, a quick (or long) visit is a very good reminder as to what this walk is all about because it is not just your average a to b walk with some good views along the way. No, this is the sort of walk that takes you back in history - to something like the Tertiary age millions of years ago. After that, most laurisilva forests disappeared except in Madiera, the Azores and the Canary Islands.  Even then, the laurisilva forest of Los Tilos in La Palma is rather special as it is the best example in the Canary Islands.
So who were we to begrudge a few steps (and there are rather a lot) up through the forest as we headed to the Mirador de las Barandas?  Quite.  And of course there are some flat bits. 

Just as we were beginning to think that the steps went on forever, it was with some surprise that we suddenly reached our first way-point of the Mirador de la Banaderos some 40 minutes from the start.  Here, a selection of rustic picnic tables invited us for a sit down in the shade or a drink at the nearby water fountain.  But no, a look at the view and then onward.

After the ascent to the mirador, the route was much kinder in the form of a pretty forest track, lined with the gigantic ferns that Los Tilos is so famous for. 

In fact, each fern was easily as tall and wide as us so it really was a walk in the land of the giants.  

One thing I love about the walks on La Palma is not just the challenge, the views and the interest value - but also seeing the 'signs through the ages.'  This route, along with many walks on La Palma, has recently been re-signposted and is now designated as the PR-LP 9.1 and it is almost always very easy to follow. Along with the posts, there are still one or two of the rustic old signs and if you peer into the undergrowth at the occasional junction, then you will most likely spot the walking blaze to confirm that you are literally on track or the painted 'X' sign to tell you that this is not the way to go. The new signs for the walks don't look at all out of place and are very clear.

Great though to just wander along the path and enjoy the views, especially on a bright and sunny day.  But also good to see that, if the weather is less kind, there are some man-made caves which did look inviting. 

And then we got to the fun bit - probably what you least expect in a forest - a water gallery, pumping station and a railway train to play with.  OK, the train part isn't there any more apart from the old dolly but the tracks certainly are, along with the wheels which still run up and down. Oh yes ... we did!

After that bit of excitement, it was a short ascent along the forest trail again before reaching open ground and the view of La Laguna - the largest reservoir in the Canaries.  Here it seemed that all manner of different things were growing together, including cactus, apple trees and some wonderful fungi that reminded me of chocolate profiteroles piled up. 

After this, we were into open farmland with the forest behind us and La Laguna growing steadily closer.  Good to know that once at La Laguna we could pause for an ice-cream at the restaurant Las Goteras or if needs get a taxi into Barlovento.  But no, best keep on walking towards the town where we would catch the bus back to our start point.  

* This walk forms part of our luggage-transported, self-guided walking holiday on La Palma. 

A short walk through the woods

Step by step, La Palma is improving all of its 1000km + of trails and tracks around the island.  It's a mammoth task of course, not just clearing and marking the paths but maintaining them as well.  And I am happy to say that the vast majority of the work has been completed and our walkers are mightily impressed with the walks on La Palma and how clearly they are marked.
However, it seems that even the smallest paths have not been forgotten and just last week we discovered that the path between Hotel Romantica and the town of Barlovento in the north east of La Palma has been reclaimed.

It is a very short stretch admittedly and only takes around 7 minutes, but it is immensely better than walking on the road which not only takes longer but is less than ideal with no footpath. The result is that walkers and hotel guests can enjoy walking on this small woodland trail between the hotel and the GR130 route around La Palma as it crosses through Barlovento town with its shops and many facilities. 
And I must say, it is surprising how even the shortest little trail can be a bit of fun - and don't forget to watch out for the selection of pygmy chickens and cockerels that inhabit the woods.