Walking the GR131/GR130 El Time to Los Llanos

Just for a bit of fun, we decided that we would walk a short stretch of the GR130 long-distance trekking route. After all, the last time we walked this particular section, we managed to loose the route, stopped way too long at the bottom of the ravine where we paddled in the water, got boiling hot on the ascent and got lost again at the end. So we rather hoped for better with a re-run!
Paddling in the Barranco de Angustias 2010

Last Friday was the designated day then, a day when we could interpolate a walk with getting the MOT for the car (called ITV in Spain), visit the Banana Museum in Tazacorte and try to find some new sun loungers for the Casita. That little list is where the fun element comes in.
Actually though, there was a semi-serious side to it. In November we have a small walking group from Sweden coming over to walk the GR130 as part of a luggage transported walking holiday (otherwise known as accommodation to accommodation) and whilst the normal itinerary for this walking holiday has the walkers finish at Tazacorte, this group will finish in Los Llanos at the Hotel Valle Aridane. Ah yes, the penny drops ... and that's why I was keen to walk this last section - to get it right his time! <BLOG_BREAK>

We started at the Mirador El Time which is on the GR131 route, the same route that the Transvulcania athletes run. Of course there was to be no running for us. So up the GR131 we trudged and 20 minutes later arrived at the GR130 Camino Real. The sign there reads 'Los Llanos 5.6km.' Bring it on! (So say some.) But one thing that is indisputable is the view, it's awesome no matter how many times you see it. It's also a pretty good view from the Mirador El Time by the way so that even if you don't want to walk, you can still take in the view. 

From the our starting point on the GR130, we headed down the northern flank of the Barranco de Las Angustias - the Ravine of Anxiety - whose waters flow out at Tazacorte. (If you want to find out more about the history of Tazacorte, you can check out our webpage here: http://www.holiday-lapalma.com/abouttazacorte.html)

 It's slow going as it's steep and you need to walk with care but just under one and a half hours later we were crossing the footbridge to the other side. This time, we had found the exact route and managed not to get way-laid by clean and cool mountain water babbling its way along the ravine bed. Helped by the fact that there wasn't any water running at this time of year.

After a brief stop in the shade for a drink some fruit it was onward and upward. This time we were lucky because the clouds moved in and we had some natural cover from the sun. Along the way, we stopped off several times to take photos and admire the view from the other side - this time of Tazacorte, the little beach village. 

Although we were pleased to have found the correct route down the barranco (the up part is easy!), walking through Los Llanos requires some concentration. The strange thing about the GR130 route is that as soon as you get to a village, town or city, the signs stop - or at least seem to thin out so that it does become a treasure hunt for those white over red blazes. But with David acting as chief spotter while I took photos of bizarre things such as chemist opening hours, location of phone boxes and the like we honed straight in to the Hotel Valle Aridane and still on the trail.
Perhaps not the most obvious choice for a walk except as part of the GR130 experience but certainly some amazing views, a sense of achievement and, yes, fun!

Walking Los Lobos GR131, Fuerteventura

If you love the whole thing about walking routes - not just the act of walking or trekking - then you'll probably realise that the GR131 is not just on La Palma but it also meanders off to El Hierro, Tenerife, Fuerteventura and even the small island of Los Lobos just off Fuerteventura. That's 651kkm of walking trail and surely enough for even the most enthusiastic walker. So rather fittingly, although I was disappointed to miss the Transvulcania Ultramarathon on the La Palma GR131 this weekend, at least we were walking the GR131 albeit on the island of Los Lobos.

On the ferry from Fuerteventura to Los Lobos

The island of Los Lobos is a tiny scrap of land with a coastline of 13.7km and a 15-minute ferry ride away from Fuerteventura. From the sea, it looks potentially boring with a long flat bit, a big lump on one end and lots of pimples scattered all over it. In fact, it's a nature reserve with beaches to swoon over, a lighthouse and a peak of 127m, the Montaña la Caldera - in my opinion, it's a 'must do' if you find yourself on holiday in Fuerteventura.

Our aim was to climb the Montaña and have a swim, so nothing too energetic. Right by the jetty, the GR131 sign enticed us towards the first beach of La Calera. 

GR131 sign

But no, the swim was to be the reward after climbing the Montaña which we could see in the distance. Surely it's higher than 127m - it certain looks it! But with a good flatish path, it was fun to stride out especially as most of the walks on La Palma involve some sort of incline or decline.

Striding out on the GR131 Los Lobos

Actually, the path was ascending but only gradually so we hardly noticed and just 30 minutes from the start, we were at the foothills of the Montaña where a sign asked us to maintain silence due to the nesting season of the birds - Shearwaters, Petrels Ospreys and Gulls. Nobody had told the birds to be quiet of course so there was plenty of screeching going on!

Be aware of birds nesting on Los Lobos between February and July

The 'up' part treated us very gently at the start and in fact the whole way. In less than an hour from the start of the walk we were at the top where there is a trig point and then a short walk along the ridge - it's a case of views and more views. 

From the top of the Montaña la Caldera

After a good old photo shoot, we were on our way back down again and at the bottom 20 minutes later. That part I know, the part I'm not sure of is when we decided to walk around the whole island. OK, so we decided we would head off in the general direction of the Faro, the lighthouse, which is at the far end of the island and because we were having well, FUN, we just kept going!

Lighthouse on Los Lobos

We did decide that we wouldn't fully investigate the lighthouse because we had to catch the last ferry at 16.00hrs and we still had our swim to go. So at the junction, we swung a right and headed down the west side of the island. This side was rather more sandy than the rockier east but still fascinating. I must admit though we could have done with an extra sign or two to help us choose the way!

But we did eventually get to the 'Lagunas,' a natural area of marshland which is not something you expect on such an arid island. It's a great habitat for the birds and a place where you might want to spend sometime bird-watching. Just not swimming. 

The surprise though is perhaps in the heather which had just finished being in blossom. Apparently if you go in March/April, it's a really beautiful sight.

Heather on Los Lobos and Las Lagunas in the distance

But when we did get to the beach which is in fact called El Puertito, I don't think we could quite believe it - it's straight out of the Bahamas! This is also where the restaurant is, a few houses and small boats tied up to moorings in the clear, azure waters.

El Puertito

But this is not the beach we were heading to although in fact it is just 7 minutes to El Muelle, the harbour, where we had docked earlier in the day. Instead we carried on walking in the direction of the harbour and onto Playa la Concha, just six minutes the other side of the port. 

When it comes to beaches, Fuerteventura and of course Lanzarote have any number of fabulous beaches. This is just one of them! 

Playa la Concha, Los Lobos

So where next on the GR131? Having arrived back on Fuerteventura on the ferry, we didn't really have far to look before bumping into the GR131 trail. I'm not 100% sure I'll be signing up for those walks though as they look very hot and exposed. And after all, we've still got to the finish the La Palma GR131 between El Pilar and Mirador Los Andenes. 

One day, one day. 

For more information on Fuerteventura, you might like to check out www.relocatecanaries.com

New and improved walking route - La Palma 9.1

I think we can safely say that we've not been big on long walks this summer. But as usual, there has been plenty else going on including giving a temporary home to two kittens and two small dogs for two months which was sandwiched in between some restoration work and a  'flying visit' to the UK. Never dull anyway!

However, in October with family here for a week's holiday, we thoroughly enjoyed a walk from Roque de Faro at 1000m above sea level down to Franceses at 500m. It's a two hour walk and so the downward gradient is not too steep - great to chat and walk whilst still enjoying the scenery. At Roque Faro, there is the bar/restaurant El Reyes, so if you like you can pop in there for refreshments or a meal - it's a rustic restaurant serving goat and rabbit plus La Palma wines and local goat cheese, so worth a visit.
The easiest way to tackle it is to take the number 100 bus from Franceses to Roque Faro - they run every two hours on the even hour weekdays and every four hours at weekends and fiestas. You can check out the bus timetable here. You might also be interested to know that there are now whizzo timetables in the bus shelters so we've gone from a scrappy bit of paper (if at all) to a highly durable, highly master-minded board with the information displayed in three different formats. It's a quantum leap in the world of La Palma bus information. You've just gotta love it.

The start of the walk however is not easy to find so it was a good job that we already know where it is. So to begin the walk, head uphill from Restaurant Reyes and the path runs alongside the first building on the left before the church. By the way, looking above and behind the church you can see the observatories by the Roque de Muchachos - an awesome sight. And if you were to continue walking uphill to the left of the church, a four hour walk would get you to Mirador Andenes on the GR131 - but that wasn't for us on this particular occasion.

Having followed the path along the side of the building (not the most salubrious part of the walk), you quickly reach woodland. Descending down half a dozen steps of hewn logs we are already surrounded by trees, and with dry leaves underfoot and the smell of rich earth all around, the magic begins. And so do the signs.

 Almost immediately, there's an option for a detour to a spring, a Fuente as they are called in Spanish. We take a quick vote on it and the unanimous decision is that we are feeling generous enough to give it a try. OK, so it was only a 50m detour as it turned out but very well worth it, if not for the actual spring but to see the huge ferns growing by it.

So far the route has only taken us a little further on from Roque Faro but because we are in meandering woodland, you don't get a sense of this at all and feel as if you are covering some distance. A couple of years ago, the route was actually changed to this new and improved way. Before, the LP9.1 followed the road for around half a kilometre which was slightly dull but now that section has been taken out although none of the maps yet show it. The new route takes you into a dell, passes a farm and then into a clearing in the bed of the barranco where there are some sort of rock works going on. Finding the route on the other side of the clearing is not immediately obvious but as usual, if you set off on a path, there is a usually a sign of some type within a few metres. Now it's up hill back up the other side of the ravine again and in the sun, so when we arrive at El Cruce, we're all feeling a bit hot!

El Cruce is where there is a giant pine tree next to the main road, it's huge, I mean really huge. And it's also where the LP109 old road, the first road to cross the north, emerges from Barlovento. By the way, if you ever get the chance, that's an extremely scenic 15km drive complete with single track tunnels at the start - pure magic, except when the cloud is low and then it looks and feels like anywhere else does in the fog.

We only walk on the old road for five minutes before we are signposted off to the left and downhill into woodland again. After walking along a flat woodland path, we come to a gate. It's a La Palma gate. That means it 'had a previous life,' usually as a bed frame or some other random object. Oh yes, still lovin' it! Actually, we know this gate of old, or some derivation of it at least, so we know it's not a gate to keep people out but rather to keep the pig in. On a previous walk, the pig follow us for a ridiculous length of time, until we had to use persuasive methods to deter him from coming home with us. But all that said, it can be an awkward gate to open as the farmer has improved pig-security since the photo below was taken. Luckily, PJ is well versed in opening awkward anti-pig gates and very quickly the obstacle, wasn't.

We then come to our next landmark which is a house completely in the middle of nowhere and with a couple of crosses outside. There is a track which goes straight on and in fact this is where the route used to go. But now we head off at 90 degrees to the left. This is actually a big improvement because the old route was a boring concrete track that seemed to go on forever. But with the new route, we are quickly back in woodland and after walking on further, we come to the main road which we cross and go straight down a set of stone steps back into woodland.

Now it's all downhill, as the saying goes. With farmland at each side, we walk down a narrow track that has been gouged out by heavy winter rains in the past. This is the shortcut I remind myself, the way that in the old days people from Franceses would walk up to the catch the three-times daily bus from the old road. How lucky we are now to have a two-hourly bus come right through the village.

Almost disappointingly, we come to the end of the walk. The lumpy-bumpy path gives way to a smooth grassy path which in turn becomes a short concrete track which joins the Franceses village road. We've arrived. We cross the village road and head down 'our' donkey path to home. And there is home right below us.

El Pilar to Santa Cruz PR-LP18 (13.4km)

Still on the theme of walks that involve the capital of Santa Cruz - but not the GR130 Camino Real - our latest expedition was something quite different to the Santa Cruz to Las Nieves walk and definitely longer. Five hours of steady trekking downhill tends to sort out the men from the boys and those with dodgy knees! 

The walk starts at the Refugio El Pilar - a glorious campsite at 1400m above sea level. Of course, it's not on a bus route or anything as easy as that but taxis are well used to taking people up there. At 25€ it was a fair price and we also got to learn a few short cuts as the taxi wended its way out of the city and through the suburbs before hitting the long and winding road up to the Refugio. 

The Refugio is a lovely place - an old favourite - and we have camped there several times and enjoyed a good many bbq's with groups of friends too. But this time, we hit the road straight away, following the walking sign to Santa Cruz. Incidentally, it is also the GR131 El Baston, which follows the same route for the first few minutes. 

With quite a chilly start at this altitude, we set off at a brisk pace walking on a downhill slope which soon became much steeper. We had seen mountain bikes at the start and could hear their shouts - there was no way they could make this path though - it was now a series of steep zig-zags over very rough terrain. Yes, you guessed it, two minutes later the bikes started to pass us and I was too surprised to even take a photo!

Fifty minutes from the start we arrived at the very attractive recreation area of Pared Vieja. Although the road passes just by here, I have to admit to not having been there before. A first - and one of the longest picnic tables I have ever seen! A great spot to stop for breakfast though and maybe even call back one day for a BBQ.

Crossing the road onto the next section of walk, we quickly met the road again and this was repeated - path, cross road, path, cross road. Happily, the road is very quiet and attractive with hardly any traffic, so this was no hardship.
Three kilometres from El Pilar, the path split with Santa Cruz to the right on the PR18 and El Llanito on the PR18.2. The later would also get us to Santa Cruz and on what looked to be a more interesting route and so we hung a left and followed the El Llanito sign.
The pine forests now gave way to lush fields and country paths lined with short, stone walls. Reminiscent of Ireland, or so I'm told, and although I've never been to Ireland, I can fully image that's just how it looks.

Two hours 45 minutes and 6.3km from the start of the walk, we had arrived back in civilization - houses, yay! In fact, not just any civilization but the area of Brena Alta and the Route of the Crosses. 

Now began a fascinating trail, cross by cross, each one with its name and information about its history. Fifty minutes later, we were still wading our way through the crosses! 

Now we had reached San Pedro and whilst the route was not immediately obvious, we remembered having puzzled it out before because from here on in, we had joined the GR130 Camino Real. Plain sailing!
A little bit of walking at the side of the wide and important looking road (but in reality with very little traffic) and then we took a right down past the Maroparque zoo. Here, we paused for coffee and then got our teeth into the steep descent down to Santa Cruz.

The narrow, cobbled streets streamed downhill towards the capital past every colour and every style of house. Meanwhile, the road wound its way down the hill like a slithering snake with our route cutting through it at right angles like a hot knife through butter. How tempting it would be to actually catch the bus. which we seemed to magically be keeping up with. But no, this had to be done although by now our knees were starting to remind us that this had been quite a long descent.
But so very worth it.

Exploring the Peaks of the GR131

This week, we were lucky enough to take a trip up to Roque de Muchachos and the observatories.  Although it is only 50 minutes away from the house by car, we still continue to be amazed by it!
The past week or so, we have had absolutely fabulous weather and the view up at the top of the island did not disappoint. Even Rocky the Raven was in fine form, doing his best to gain attention - and bread.

After a walk to the mirador which gives an impressive view down into the Caldera, walking back up to the Roque de Muchachos was also brilliant!

Path up the Roque de Muchachos

However, we were on a bit of a mission on this occasion, walking and exploring along the ridge and so set off in the Land Rover first of all passing the Mirador de los Andenes and then on past Pico de la Cruz and then towards Pico de la Nieve. Here we left the road and followed the forest track up towards the GR131.  After bumping along the track for a good ten minutes (not that good), we arrived at a flat area which serves as a car park.  Here we were at LP3 walking route which goes up to the GR131 and all the way down to Santa Cruz.

We decided to save the walk to the GR131 for another time and it's one to look forward to, up through the pine forests to emerge right at the Pico de la Nieve, Peak of the Snow.  Exciting or what!
Returning back to the road and towards the Pico de la Cruz we were struck by just how many walking trails there are that cascade down from the GR131. It is quite incredible and I don't think you could ever be stuck for an amazing walk on La Palma!

Near the Pico de la Cruz, we did stretch our legs a little more and walked up to the GR131.  It's a very short walk at just 0.5km and well worth doing.  In fact, there are a couple of viewing points and this is also where the LP7.8 goes down towards Los Tilos where we made our last walk and on to La Laguna and Barlovento.

On reaching the GR131, we had a fabulous view not just down into the Caldera but looking straight into the heart of the ravine as it goes towards Tazacorte and the sea. This is where rain water collects and begins its journey to the sea and is aptly named 'Fuente del Diablo' the Spring of the Devil.
Honestly - it's scary stuff!

Back at the Mirador de los Andenes where the GR131 touches the main road for just five metres, we were just in time to see walkers coming through Roberto's Wall. What a legend and what a wall - you can read about the legend here.

 

Yes, just another amazing day on La Palma.

Another hidden trail

Our mission was to seek and enjoy.  To go where no man had been before ... well, not recently anyway.
And that's what walking on La Palma is all about - not just the host of marked trails such as the famous GR130 and GR131 - but also the hidden, 'secret' routes.  And we were just itching to get off the beaten track and explore.  After all, one of the frustrating things is seeing interesting sights such as caves or wooden-roofed dwellings but only being able to look from a distance.  Just how did you get to them? 
Today our question was answered.
We took the GR130 route as usual from Franceses but headed off down an unmarked side track that we had noticed several times before.  The path passed by a couple of old dwellings and then a prettier house surrounded by geraniums and palm trees.  Abandoned or not ... it's sometimes difficult to tell!

We continued down the path which eventually finished in a field.  Shame, but the view was nice, overlooking the sea.  Undeterred though, we decided to walk along the side of the field where the earth was hard-packed and clearly not being dug over for vegetables.  At the end of the field was a rough construction, a sort of lean-to, and at the other side of this in the shade, sat an elderly gentleman.
We apologised profusely, in case we had trespassed in any way.  He just took a long puff on his pipe and declared that we were very welcome to enjoy the scenery - 'Why not!' 
After chatting a while and then exchanging friendly farewells, we made our way back up the path and continued along the GR130 again.  Now another side path appeared and once more we diverted down it.  This is what we were looking for.

Tucked away at the end of the path, we came across what was practically an encampment of little dwellings all made of stone and with wooden roofs.  These are so emblematic of the area of Garafia in the north of La Palma and the precursor to houses such as our own Casita.  Would anybody be at home to make us a cup of tea though?

Oh well, at least there was fresh mountain water from a natural spring not too far away, although practically tucked out of sight under a bush.  But now we know where and how to look for the tell-tale signs of springs, they are quite easy to find!
However, the path seemed to have petered out here.  Our natural inclincation was to try and head on further down as that was the direction in which we were going.  But then of course there was a path which ran along back of the house.  And surprise, surprise, it joined up with the first path we had been on. 
Joy.

Ruta del Bastón - GR131 group walk

If you have a passion to walk the GR131 but not the inclination to do it on your own or without backup, now is your chance.  

Next weekend, the 4th and 5th June, the walking group Caminantes las Breñas will be setting off from Tazacorte on what is often called  la Ruta del Bastón (The Walking Stick route).  For those who are rather more keen on using route numbers, it is the GR131 La Palma route.

In the context of the 'bastón,' Tazacorte is at the end of the handle of the walking stick with the Caldera de Taburiente being represented by the inside area of the handle.  The Roque de Muchachos is the uppermost part of the handle itself and the volcano route the long, straight stick part.  So it's a case of up ... over ... round ... and down right from sea level at Tazacorte in the west of La Palma, to 2426m at the Roque de Muchachos and back down to sea level at Fuencaliente in the extreme south.  

The route starts at Tazacorte

Day one will get you (with a little luck and some stern walking) to Refugio Punta de las Roques where you will overnight.  Day two will take you from there, to El Pilar, the volcano route and eventually Fuencaliente lighthouse.
In fact, it is the Transvulcania route in reverse.  Whichever way you do it, it's not for the faint hearted. 

You will need to put your name down for this walk by 2pm on Monday 30th May - details are here.
Incidently, if you are looking for holiday accommodation in Tazacorte in conjunction with walking and or sightseeing, we are now able to offer, on behalf of the owners, a one-bedroomed apartment right by the beach.  The GR131 is literally right around the corner, the GR130 not far away and it's just a short bus ride to the town of Los Llanos.  It is also handy for the volcano route, Cumbrecita and Caldera - plus it is right by the beach.
So if you are looking for a self-catering holiday apartment on La Palma with all of those things, click here or just ask.
Happy walking folks!

El Trio Zapatistas walk la Palma

Have you ever  looked at the official island website on walking on La Palma.  It is a fantastic source of information on the walking routes on the islands (Red de Senderos La Palma, network of paths) and include not just the GR130 but also the GR131, the volcano route, Marcos y Cordera and many more.  It doesn't actually give you a point by point route description but does give distances and profiles.
However it is especially worthwhile looking at right now because our very own wonderful La Palma band (of singing bandoleros variety), El Trio Zapatistas, have got a U-Tube video link on the main page.
Just click here and you too will become an instant fan of El Trio Zapatistas.  Guaranteed!  And what's more you can join in with them as they walk the fantastic hiking trails of La Palma.  Singing along is optional.

Accept your destiny - running the GR131, La Palma

If you are into endurance, then how about the 3rd Transvulcania Ultramarathon on La Palma in the Canary Islands, probably the toughest run in Spain?   It's certainly not for the faint-hearted at 83.3 km for the Ultramarathon and 26.8km for the half.   And of course I should probably mention that La Palma is said to be the most mountainous island in the world for its size.
The run starts in the extreme south of the island at sea level from the Fuencaliente lighthouse and follows the trail of the GR131 up the volcano route ....

The volcano route

 ... right over the top of the island, the Roque de Muchachos at 2426m above sea level ...

and then continues down the GR131 trail to Los Llanos de Aridane in the west.  Ouch! 
 That is an accumulated ascent of 4,415 metres and acumulated descent of 2,910.  It normally takes three or four days to walk but - hey - what's the point of hanging around, you might as well get it all over in one go!   If you think it all sounds a bit tough, give a thought to the military who will be competing in the full Ultramarathon - with 26 kg on board.  The half marathon is of course slightly kinder but let's face it, it's still going to hurt.
 The exciting thing for us is that La Palma is really getting into gear not just bringing the amazing walking opportunities that the island has to offer up to scratch but now the running opportunities with fell or hill running (mountain running) and extreme endurance running too.   In the first Transvulcania in 2009 there were 387 runners and in 2010 there were 647 so it is growing in popularity.  This year, the maximum has been set at 800 runners, that's 450 in the Ultramarathon and 350 in the half marathon.
Plenty for the rest of the family and kids too with a range of distances right down to a minithon of 500 metres for the under 7's. 
That's the bad news.  The good news is that you've got a week to get your application in and, well, ages to train.  Four weeks anyway.
I have decided however that I shall not be entering.  It has of course been a very difficult decision but I feel that my talents lay more in the cheering department, giving encouragement to others.  And, after all that running, for anybody who has a mind to explore the GR130 along the dramatic north coast, don't forget our bed and breakfast accommodation or even self-catering cottage for a few days of R & R.  I think you'll have earned it.
Sponsored by Salomon Nature Trails, the date for this years La Palma Transvulcania is Saturday 7th May, commencing at 06.00 hrs. Come and accept your destiny.  click here for more details
You can see more photos of the first section of the GR131, the volcano route here