Walking the Cumbrecita

A couple of days ago, we were in the West of La Palma with some time to spare - quite a rare thing as normally our expeditions south are a whirlwind affair with a whole list of jobs to do, friends to see and shops to visit. But this time, we decided to award ourselves a little treat by staying the night at an apartment in Tazacorte.

Located right by the beach, a swim was the obvious thing to do. But I had a whole myriad of other fun things I wanted to do as well - the salt pans at Fuencaliente, the banana museum at Tazacorte and walking the Cumbrecita. To name but a few. It was certainly tricky to decide but with such a beautiful day, we decided that it would be a shame to be in a museum or in the car longer than necessary and so the Cumbrecita walk won the vote. 

The Cumbrecita is not a long walk by any means at around one and a half hours, but it's a walk that packs a punch with amazing views virtually all the way. And the other great thing is that for those who are not dedicated walkers, it's not a long walk to get there and nor is it a steep walk although admittedly there are a couple of fairly narrow sections which some might be too fond of. But what you can also look forward to is a warm welcome from the resident ravens. 

The start of the Cumbrecita walk is just over 6km from the main road and it takes around 15 minutes to drive up there. But before you set off, you'll need to pop into the nearby Visitor Centre to get your pass. It's free but you will need to show your driving licence or passport as proof of identity. 

Once at the top, you can walk to one of the Miradores (look out points), either the Lomo de las Chozas which takes about 20 minutes from the car park or the Mirador de los Roques just 15 minutes from the car park. 

Or you can do the 1.5 hour circular walk which takes in both look out points. 

From here, I'll let the photos do the talking. Hope you get to enjoy walking the Cumbrecita while you're on La Palma!

You might be interested to know that detailed route notes for our walks on La Palma are now for sale, including walking the GR130, the Volcano Route, the Caldera, Los Tilos and more. Please contact us for details ann@holiday-lapalma.com

The GR130 through Puntagorda

As anybody who follows this blog will realise, I am pretty much smitten with the amazing long-distance GR130 Camino Real trekking route around La Palma. Well, after all we do live a stone's throw away from it and overlook some of the  most magnificent stretches of the route as it winds its way between us and El Tablado.  In fact, having walked the entire route ourselves over a period of time, I like to compare it to life; full of ups and downs! Yes, it's the walk of life.
For those think of walking the route, I am happy to report that more than 90% of it is well sign-posted but strangely enough, the biggest mystery is through the towns. Los Llanos, Los Sauces, Santa Cruz, you name it and you'll struggle to spot a white over red blaze, let alone a signpost.
How lovely then that we had the opportunity this week to walk the Camino Real route through Puntagorda once again. I remember the first time we tried to find the route through this small but stretched out village/town. It certainly took some finding and we ended up in people's gardens or wood sheds more than a few times!
Of course it all starts well and good but after leaving the eco-campsite of La Rosa Centro de Naturaleza heading in a southerly direction, that's when you'll see your last good tip for a while - Puntagorda 1km.

So having crossed the main road and walked down the path through the nursery, it might be some while before you see a sign again, that is if you see one again at all because if you go off piste, so to speak, there are no signs to direct you back to where you should be.  That's fair enough, otherwise the place would be littered with signs.
However, if you have armed yourself with the Freytag & Berndt map, there is a clue there because you'll see that the route appears to follow the road. In fact, you may think the route is on the road. But no, it is as near the road as it can be - so keep walking parallel to the road as much as possible. And whilst that sounds as if you are close to traffic really it feels like you are deep in the country.

Along the way of course the route tries to fool you in a few places. For example, when you come to crossroads, the natural inclination is to carry straight on. But no, who would have guessed it, you go uphill. And then having settled into the new course and stoutly walking uphill, the route dodges off to the right. Ah, those signs facing away from you that disguise themselves as a garden post, you didn't think we'd fall for that one did you?

 But now the route settles itself into a very nice pattern of 'meet road, cross road' and keep going. Oh yes, we can all understand that one, especially with great big signs to tell us that we should just cross the road and continue along our merry way.

But of course nothing lasts forever, so when you try and apply your new-found logic to the next junction, this time without any signs whatsoever, it's only natural that you cross the road onto the path opposite which is a beautiful cobbled path. A GR130 path if ever I saw one. But no, it is of course nothing more than a cunning decoy which invites you to a runner bean teepee in a back garden.
In fact the route goes uphill to the left and by simply bearing left again at the Y-junction then you will arrive at the main road. Here, you can apply the 'meet road, cross road' mantra and if you look carefully enough you will in fact see the Camino Real signed to Tijarafe on the path opposite. Yay, you've done it!

However, in one way none of this really matters if you are pausing in your quest to conquer the Camino Real and staying at the Pension Mar y Monte in Puntagorda because all roads tend to lead there, or pretty much anyway. You see, Puntagorda is arranged in such a way that it is a series of houses and streets over several mini-barrancos which are linked by one long street which runs parallel to the main road. If you head down one of the lanes at 90 degrees to the main road you will hit the village street at some point along its length.

With shops and bars dotted about in various places in Puntagorda and a decent mid-sized supermarket at each end, it tends to be around the clock tower at the southerly end that most of the amenities are located. Around it, along with the Town Hall, you'll find the bank, post office, pharmacy, supermark and the Pension Mar y Monte located close by too.Simples!

And if you are thinking of one of our luggage-transported walking holidays, then full notes are of course provided.

From Pines to Paddling

If you like to walk and are interested in walking on La Palma, then how about joining one of the walking groups on the island?
 For example, this Sunday, 17th July, there is a walk from Dos Pinos to Tazacorte.  It's a fairly easy walk, well easy for La Palma, so should be suitable for most levels of walker.  It will take around 5 hours and the meet up time is 8 a.m. at the Dos Pinos supermarket carpark located just off the main road between Los Llanos and El Paso. 
If you haven't registered with them previously then you will need to tag on at the back.  Ideally, you need to be part of the walking group and that way the organisor will ring you each week giving you advance notice of the walk.  They are a great group, lots of fun and it's a good way to meet new (Palmeran) friends. 
So, for this week's walk, don't forget that it ends at the beach so better bring your bathers! And you might even decide to take advantage of one of the fantastic fish restaurants at Tazacorte while you're there.  Enjoy!

Another hidden trail

Our mission was to seek and enjoy.  To go where no man had been before ... well, not recently anyway.
And that's what walking on La Palma is all about - not just the host of marked trails such as the famous GR130 and GR131 - but also the hidden, 'secret' routes.  And we were just itching to get off the beaten track and explore.  After all, one of the frustrating things is seeing interesting sights such as caves or wooden-roofed dwellings but only being able to look from a distance.  Just how did you get to them? 
Today our question was answered.
We took the GR130 route as usual from Franceses but headed off down an unmarked side track that we had noticed several times before.  The path passed by a couple of old dwellings and then a prettier house surrounded by geraniums and palm trees.  Abandoned or not ... it's sometimes difficult to tell!

We continued down the path which eventually finished in a field.  Shame, but the view was nice, overlooking the sea.  Undeterred though, we decided to walk along the side of the field where the earth was hard-packed and clearly not being dug over for vegetables.  At the end of the field was a rough construction, a sort of lean-to, and at the other side of this in the shade, sat an elderly gentleman.
We apologised profusely, in case we had trespassed in any way.  He just took a long puff on his pipe and declared that we were very welcome to enjoy the scenery - 'Why not!' 
After chatting a while and then exchanging friendly farewells, we made our way back up the path and continued along the GR130 again.  Now another side path appeared and once more we diverted down it.  This is what we were looking for.

Tucked away at the end of the path, we came across what was practically an encampment of little dwellings all made of stone and with wooden roofs.  These are so emblematic of the area of Garafia in the north of La Palma and the precursor to houses such as our own Casita.  Would anybody be at home to make us a cup of tea though?

Oh well, at least there was fresh mountain water from a natural spring not too far away, although practically tucked out of sight under a bush.  But now we know where and how to look for the tell-tale signs of springs, they are quite easy to find!
However, the path seemed to have petered out here.  Our natural inclincation was to try and head on further down as that was the direction in which we were going.  But then of course there was a path which ran along back of the house.  And surprise, surprise, it joined up with the first path we had been on. 
Joy.

GR130 Las Tricias to Santo Domingo - 11.3km 3.5hrs

Timeline - Tuesday, 28th December, 2010.
Yup, back on the trail again.  Not that we haven't got anything else to do except walk and then write about it.  We have!  But we wanted to make sure that we had walked every section of the GR130 this year and after this walk, we will have - and some sections in both directions.
At first we planned to walk from Puntagorda and, having left the car in Santo Domingo and now sitting on the bus heading in that direction, we suddenly decided that we would get off earlier at Las Tricias and walk from there.  Reason?  It was so darned hot!!  Yes, one of those crazy weather days added to the fact that we were having a really late start due to other commitments.  See - I told you we did other things!
It was 13.30 by the time we were getting off the bus but as it was where the trail meets the road, we were walking straight away.  Almost immediately, it feels like we are deep in the countryside, miles from a main road and we are treated to some fabulous views - can this really be the Canaries?

But there are a few walkers about and as we pass close to an 'era' - a stone threshing circle - we see it is being used by a family as a handy picnic spot.  And why not!  The children are keen to head off and explore though and they won't be disappointed when they come across this spectacular dragon tree, hundreds of years old.

So far the walking has been pretty easy - a few lose stones and downhill tracks but nothing even remotely challenging - just wall to wall beautiful scenery and visual treats.

We are beginning to wish we had walked from Puntagorda now as the temperature seems to have moderated to 'warm' and is very pleasant, especially without the tough ravines to conquer.  But no walk on La Palma would be complete without some fairly serious down and up bits and after a few more kilometres, we are not disappointed.  It looks SO far to get down to the bottom but we know that the winding path will get us there, step by step.

We've walked 3.6km and a signpost tells us that there is a diversion to the Buracas caves, but we don't take it this time.   A little later a 'few' signs tell us that we can get a drink or ice-cream at a house nearby but we are keen to crack on.  I remember last time we passed here, somebody Did want an ice-cream and I had no money, mm that doesn't make you popular.  Now I always carry money, not for an ice-cream necessarily but you never know!  A little later the GR130 runs along the road for 0.9km - not the most exciting part of the walk but at least we can walk quickly and it is especially nice when we get back on a path again.

Oh, oh, another barranco.  This time the path looks a little uncertain - as in, 'is this it?' and 'is it safe?'  Nothing to do but go for it and see what happens. Of course, it is absolutely fine and as we get to the bottom and start the ascent up the other side, we see that the Cabildo have been busy clearing the path for us.
A third barranco welcomes us to the top with a simple but nonetheless dramatic wooden cross.

Now it is a completely easy-peasy path - lush green and a delight. A few special sights along the way such as a shrine with Mary Magdalene and several other figures including a man in a white coat and trilby hat. Uh?

Now we join the little road to Cueva de Agua where there is obviously some sensitive issue going on about who has a right to use the road.  We can only assume that those on foot are exempt from any restrictions.  Quite quickly this minor road joins the main road and I'm afraid it's road walking all the way to Santo Domingo - 2.9km.  Well, it's a chance to stride out and we quickly come into town. I have to say what a curious place Santo Domingo is, it can often resemble a film lot where everybody  has just left the scene for the day. As we walked through everything was closed, even its four bars.  But there are some very interesting side roads for those that want to explore the old part.

 

Well, that's it for 2010.  It has been a great year for walking on La Palma and we feel truly lucky to have been able to do it.   I hope many people will also be able to enjoy it in 2011.

A bit of a run

If running is your game rather than walking - and I am talking here about the rather specialist sport of mountain trail running - then you could hardly pick a better place to do it on than La Palma.
Over the past few years there has been an increased interest in running on the island which has resulted in events such as the Transvulcania (85km) and the Puntallana Goat Trail (32km).  However, these distances can easily make you break into a sweat just at the thought.  Hence the idea of the shorter Aduares Run of 11km which will allow more people to participate especially as it is (apparently) of a low difficulty.
Scheduled for the 19th December, you can register at this site www.sportlapalma.com

Other dates for your diary are -

I Duothon - Brena Alta - 19 February 2011
II Duothon - Puntallana - 16 April 2011
III Transvulcania - 7 May 2011 (be very afraid) or Half Marathon at 26k (only slightly less afraid)
XII Triathlon - Fuencaliente - 25 June 2011 (swim 0.75k, cycle 20k, run 5k)
I Aquathon - Bajamar - 16 July 2011 (run, swim, run)
I Aquathon - Los Cancajos - 13 August (run, swim, run)
X Triathlon - La Palma - 20 August 2011

You have been warned.  Now get out there training!  I shall be watching you ...

GR130 - Tijarafe to Los Llanos 14.6 km

This report didn't get published after we walked this section of the GR130 earlier this year (10th April,2010)  - so here we are!
We parked the car at the southern end of Tijarafe, opposite the bus stop where we had last finished walking from Puntagorda.  Having climbed into our walking uniform of boots and rucksacks, we grabbed our poles and set off along the pavement with a spring in our step and hopefully looking like real explorers.  Approximately thirty seconds later where the pavement ended, we were lost.  Did the trail follow the main road or did it go down the side road to our right?  The side road looked the most appealing and on walking down there we quickly found that it ended at a few large houses.  Maybe there was a secret path hidden behind the houses?  An elderly and jolly-looking lady had just come out of the front door of one of the houses and was coming down the path.  She was holding, high in the air, a large fish by its tail and I took the opportunity to ask her if this was the Camino Real, the GR130.  She grinned and nodded her head enthusiastically and said that she had no idea.  She would ask her daughter who was bound to know and so lady and fish returned to the house to find daughter.  When all three emerged again, the daughter kindly explained that we should return to the main road and follow it until we came to the 'grey' house (for which read 'breeze block') and we would see a sign indicating the route.
With such a interesting start, we set off again in great spirits.  And it was true, once we had walked fifty metres along the road, we spotted the sign along with our first cross of the day.

Passing behind the 'grey' house, we started to ascend along a little path which brought us to a narrow road where there were three bench seats named (presumably) after family members.  We crossed the lane with the sun shining above and glinting on the green grass underfoot.  Now we found ourselves above the road, walking along a little path and eventually on a gentle slope down into our first barranco.  Ah - unless things were about to change - this was lovely, easy going.  And surprise, surprise it didn't change.  This was the easiest barranco we have encountered so far and extremely pretty, lined with pine trees and the path covered in pine needles.  I would have liked to stay a little longer.

Climbing up the other side of the barranco, we had a lovely view back to Tijarafe and eventually we popped up at a little plaza.  I could imagine this would be a fun place but today, all was quiet and we disappeared down the far side of the plaza onto a small path.  On surfacing back at the road again a short time later, we were once again confused.  It looked as if there had been a rockfall on to the road and no signs were visible.  However, we took a chance (actually, there was no other option) and crossed the road into a small park to search for the signs.  Great  - we hadn't been here before!  Here we could picnic or bbq.  There were even toilets and - they were open.  Whatever next!

Now we were back on little paths and intriguingly passing right by people's front doors.  It was a wonderful insight in the lives of some Palmeros.  Sweet smelling washing hung out to dry, kids bikes, tree trunks for seats, and one little notice written in German which said (more or less), 'This tap is our tap on our patio.  Don't even think about it.'  Of course, I had walked on the patio to read what the notice said so had to beat a hasty retreat!   Down an even quieter lane, the residents had long gone.

Eventually, we arrived at something like civilization at La Punta.  Here there was a Spar and the sign told us we had walked 8.km from Tijarafe and still had 6.6km to go.  That seemed strange as we felt so near!  Never mind, onward. Over the road and then rising high above it on a steep little path which then flattened out and gave us a great view over the banana plantations and sea.

After 1 km of easy walking, the path came to a junction where it intersected the GR131.  The sign post here was almost comical with such an array of choices.  If we were at all unsure of directions and distances, then we only had to glance at the nearby new-style GR130 and GR131 signs which confirmed that it was 3.5km to Tazacorte and 14.4km to Roque de Muchachos and informed us that it was another 5.6 km to Los Llanos.  In fact, the old GR130 route used to take you into Tazacorte and we wondered for a moment if we should go down to Tazacorte but, no, we would continue to Los Llanos as planned.

Just the other side of this intersection we found the perfect place to eat.  In a delve in the rock there was a wooden bench and we sat down to eat our bocadillos and bananas, which the lizards shared, all with a wonderful view over Los Llanos. What a shame there was cloud cover which meant it was not the best photo (see website and scroll to section 7) - although it was still plenty hot enough, even with the clouds.

 Now began the descent down into the barranco de Las Angustias practically to sea level.  Oh - this was going to feel like a long way down on our little path!

barranco came ever more into sight and we could see that it was flowing with water.  This was extremely exciting as we haven't seen it flowing many times and it looked as if it could be quite deep.  We had to bide our time a little longer though as, just as we were considering if we dare take two bananas that were on the floor of the plantation just near the track, a man appeared.  'Take some bananas,' he called to us, in Spanish.  He must have read our minds.  We said that was very kind of him and how wonderful his plantation was and how much work it must be.  Oh yes, and for no money, or very little we were assured.  He then proceeded to lug half a trunk of bananas over to us.  We hurriedly explained that we didn't have the car with us, we were walking.  He looked at us as if we were mad.  He hadn't asked about a car, what was a car to do with him?  After several exchanges, we still hadn't managed to convince him that not being Palmeran weightlifters, we would need a car to transport around thirty kilos of bananas.  Whimps!  In the end, we managed to talk him down to about twenty bananas although of course he didn't want any money, whatever the case.
It was just after this that we completely lost the route and had to follow the road for about five minutes before we picked the sign up again.  The road is definitely not recommended for walkers as, despite being only just wide enough for two vehicles to pass and with many hairpin bends, it is a veritable mini Monte Carlo rally.  As a consequence, we walked very quickly!
Eventually, the path brought us to the lowest part of the road which ran alongside the barranco and we crossed the little footbridge over the flowing waters to the other side.

Now this was impressive stuff, although I am sure many people have seen the water much higher.  Anyway, we now only had 2.6km to go before Los Llanos.  But what was this - dangerous talk of swimming?  Mm, well there was somebody further up the ravine who was swimming in a natural pool of the flowing water and if I wasn't mistaken, he was starting to look a little alarmed at the thought of us joining him.  In the end we settled for a paddle where we were.

Maybe it was the fact that we stopped for quite a long time or maybe it was because our calf muscles were immersed in cold water or maybe ... well, whatever it was, that final ascent up to Los Llanos was hard going.  And of course the heat ... it felt like sitting right next to a 3 bar electric fire.  Yes, my head was undoubtedly alight and could probably have been seen from space.
Actually, I think it felt tougher than it should have been because the path doesn't zigzag.  This means that the sun zapped just one side of the body, without getting the chance to turn and get char grilled the other side. And there is no place to go for shade so the only alternative is to forge on.
Arriving in Los Llanos and passing along the curious side streets lined by little old low houses, all was forgiven.  Especially when we emerged into the leafy shade of the plaza as heroes.  

Star walkers complete the GR130 route around La Palma

Our huge congratulations to Christine of Star Trex, Jen and Bill, who all completed the GR130 route right around La Palma on Saturday, 2nd October.

Jen, Bill, Christine and Dave

It is a fantastic and impressive achievement - approximately 155 km along forest trails and volcano fields, pretty country paths and coastal ways, cobbled streets and deserted wilderness, ridiculously steep country lanes and not forgetting the numerous deep and rugged ravines to be traversed - completed in just ten days, with two rest days included.  To add to the constantly changing conditions underfoot and the scenery surrounding them, they also had challenges from up above with rain on the first day, then hot sun virtually all of the rest of the route and some thankfully slightly cooler weather towards the end.
Back up was provided by Dave with whom they stayed in phone contact and if the team were not actually walking directly to or from their accommodation, Dave was there to drop them off or pick them up.  Bailey was the fifth member of the team who did nothing but wag his tail, run around looking happy, bark once and sleep.
Very well done team - you are all stars!
Really, it was a privilege to meet them all and be a small part of their great challenge. They stayed with us here in Franceses for four nights and I am glad they had time to enjoy some of the facilities including the 'party port.'  They certainly deserved a sit down!

If you think you would like to walk the GR130 route on La Palma, either self-guided or with Christine, just send me an email or if you would like to walk in Tenerife with Christine, do drop into her website.  Apart from being a qualified mountain leader plus having walked extensively in the UK and spent eight weeks trekking in the Himalayas, she is a great guide and an inspirational person.

GR 130 - El Roque to Tijarafe 10.6 km

Spoilt for choice, we decided to walk from a little place called El Roque which is near Puntagorda in the west and sits rather conveniently at an intersection of the GR 130 where it crosses the main road. Not only was it convenient to park but it also has a beautiful bus stop!

El Roque sits behind the main road, so I feel we could be forgiven for not having noticed it in the past, but we were immediately impressed with its facilities – nothing less than a telecentro with internet connection. But that is not of course what we were there for. It seemed that music classes were also in progress as the lilting notes of a clarinet floated out onto the streets. And nice people nodded and smiled -what a good start!

We followed the little lane along – in fact we guessed that this had probably been the main road at one time – and congratulated ourselves on our good luck. The sun was shining, the lane quickly turned into a miniature cobbled street lined by interesting looking houses and we had all day to do the walk.

Within five minutes we were lost. And five minutes later were were lost again. This was not such a good start after all and we made many mutterings about the lack of a sign just where we needed it. Well, we would just have to guess that the route took us over a pile of sand which formed the building site of somebody's restoration project and sure enough – just where there was no fork in the path and nowhere else to go, there was the trusty red and white blaze confirming that we were in fact still en route.

Now the route seemed more obvious and we could follow wooden railings. Oh no, this wasn't it – this was up the famous dragon tree, we should have followed the unmarked track without railings.

In spite of a less than auspicious first half hour, it was a day for enjoying ourselves and the route provided an ever changing set of landscapes for us to walk in.

At one point, we were up in the pine forest walking high above the road, then we were down in the bottom of a barranco, clambering over rocks and next walking along a sunny flower-lined path. It was all glorious.

Then there were places with an accumulation or even just a scattering of houses. David and I are of course fascinated by all things building and since the GR 130 is lined in parts by houses, there was plenty for us to admire. And otherwise. There are the old stone dwellings, some of them sadly giving way to collapse, flat roofed houses with many extensions of various sorts, grand Canarian houses in the middle of nowhere and all styles in between.

It wasn't until we had been on the route for around three hours and enjoyed a leisurely picnic lunch that we realised we had in fact been dawdling and if we didn't get a move on, we would miss our bus in Tijarafe, the idea being that we would catch the bus back to our start point of El Roque. And being a Saturday, buses are fairly few and far between.

Luckily, the route was now much easier and what could be called almost flat – well, for La Palma anyway! Now we contented ourselves to comment and admire on the move - a sweet kitten, an intricately carved door, potatoes growing in super-neat lines, a tree in an orchard dripping with a hundred lemons, an industrial tank with Koi carp in it, huge (and I mean huge) dandelion clocks growing at the side of the path, terraces filled with lush-looking avocado trees and how the GR 130 signs were now rapidly revealing that we only had 6.3 km, 4.8 km, 2.4 km, 1.1 km to walk to Tijarafe.

At this rate we would even have time for a cold beer before the bus came!

Well, in actual fact, there was just time to get lost again. Our suspicions that we were now 'off route' were confirmed when we passed two more junctions in the track with no indication of where to go. But by now we could see Tijarafe very close by and we just followed our noses, practically leaping up a rough old path, half covered in long grass, incentive firing our boots into action.

Ah, time for a beer after all and be ready for the bus whose expected arrival we noted was 'approximate.' Happily, we were there waiting when it arrived almost ten minutes early.

(This post is imported from our Finca Franceses blogspot so that the Gr's are all together!  It was walked 14th April, 2010. )