The GR130 through Puntagorda

As anybody who follows this blog will realise, I am pretty much smitten with the amazing long-distance GR130 Camino Real trekking route around La Palma. Well, after all we do live a stone's throw away from it and overlook some of the  most magnificent stretches of the route as it winds its way between us and El Tablado.  In fact, having walked the entire route ourselves over a period of time, I like to compare it to life; full of ups and downs! Yes, it's the walk of life.
For those think of walking the route, I am happy to report that more than 90% of it is well sign-posted but strangely enough, the biggest mystery is through the towns. Los Llanos, Los Sauces, Santa Cruz, you name it and you'll struggle to spot a white over red blaze, let alone a signpost.
How lovely then that we had the opportunity this week to walk the Camino Real route through Puntagorda once again. I remember the first time we tried to find the route through this small but stretched out village/town. It certainly took some finding and we ended up in people's gardens or wood sheds more than a few times!
Of course it all starts well and good but after leaving the eco-campsite of La Rosa Centro de Naturaleza heading in a southerly direction, that's when you'll see your last good tip for a while - Puntagorda 1km.

So having crossed the main road and walked down the path through the nursery, it might be some while before you see a sign again, that is if you see one again at all because if you go off piste, so to speak, there are no signs to direct you back to where you should be.  That's fair enough, otherwise the place would be littered with signs.
However, if you have armed yourself with the Freytag & Berndt map, there is a clue there because you'll see that the route appears to follow the road. In fact, you may think the route is on the road. But no, it is as near the road as it can be - so keep walking parallel to the road as much as possible. And whilst that sounds as if you are close to traffic really it feels like you are deep in the country.

Along the way of course the route tries to fool you in a few places. For example, when you come to crossroads, the natural inclination is to carry straight on. But no, who would have guessed it, you go uphill. And then having settled into the new course and stoutly walking uphill, the route dodges off to the right. Ah, those signs facing away from you that disguise themselves as a garden post, you didn't think we'd fall for that one did you?

 But now the route settles itself into a very nice pattern of 'meet road, cross road' and keep going. Oh yes, we can all understand that one, especially with great big signs to tell us that we should just cross the road and continue along our merry way.

But of course nothing lasts forever, so when you try and apply your new-found logic to the next junction, this time without any signs whatsoever, it's only natural that you cross the road onto the path opposite which is a beautiful cobbled path. A GR130 path if ever I saw one. But no, it is of course nothing more than a cunning decoy which invites you to a runner bean teepee in a back garden.
In fact the route goes uphill to the left and by simply bearing left again at the Y-junction then you will arrive at the main road. Here, you can apply the 'meet road, cross road' mantra and if you look carefully enough you will in fact see the Camino Real signed to Tijarafe on the path opposite. Yay, you've done it!

However, in one way none of this really matters if you are pausing in your quest to conquer the Camino Real and staying at the Pension Mar y Monte in Puntagorda because all roads tend to lead there, or pretty much anyway. You see, Puntagorda is arranged in such a way that it is a series of houses and streets over several mini-barrancos which are linked by one long street which runs parallel to the main road. If you head down one of the lanes at 90 degrees to the main road you will hit the village street at some point along its length.

With shops and bars dotted about in various places in Puntagorda and a decent mid-sized supermarket at each end, it tends to be around the clock tower at the southerly end that most of the amenities are located. Around it, along with the Town Hall, you'll find the bank, post office, pharmacy, supermark and the Pension Mar y Monte located close by too.Simples!

And if you are thinking of one of our luggage-transported walking holidays, then full notes are of course provided.

GR130 Las Tricias to Santo Domingo - 11.3km 3.5hrs

Timeline - Tuesday, 28th December, 2010.
Yup, back on the trail again.  Not that we haven't got anything else to do except walk and then write about it.  We have!  But we wanted to make sure that we had walked every section of the GR130 this year and after this walk, we will have - and some sections in both directions.
At first we planned to walk from Puntagorda and, having left the car in Santo Domingo and now sitting on the bus heading in that direction, we suddenly decided that we would get off earlier at Las Tricias and walk from there.  Reason?  It was so darned hot!!  Yes, one of those crazy weather days added to the fact that we were having a really late start due to other commitments.  See - I told you we did other things!
It was 13.30 by the time we were getting off the bus but as it was where the trail meets the road, we were walking straight away.  Almost immediately, it feels like we are deep in the countryside, miles from a main road and we are treated to some fabulous views - can this really be the Canaries?

But there are a few walkers about and as we pass close to an 'era' - a stone threshing circle - we see it is being used by a family as a handy picnic spot.  And why not!  The children are keen to head off and explore though and they won't be disappointed when they come across this spectacular dragon tree, hundreds of years old.

So far the walking has been pretty easy - a few lose stones and downhill tracks but nothing even remotely challenging - just wall to wall beautiful scenery and visual treats.

We are beginning to wish we had walked from Puntagorda now as the temperature seems to have moderated to 'warm' and is very pleasant, especially without the tough ravines to conquer.  But no walk on La Palma would be complete without some fairly serious down and up bits and after a few more kilometres, we are not disappointed.  It looks SO far to get down to the bottom but we know that the winding path will get us there, step by step.

We've walked 3.6km and a signpost tells us that there is a diversion to the Buracas caves, but we don't take it this time.   A little later a 'few' signs tell us that we can get a drink or ice-cream at a house nearby but we are keen to crack on.  I remember last time we passed here, somebody Did want an ice-cream and I had no money, mm that doesn't make you popular.  Now I always carry money, not for an ice-cream necessarily but you never know!  A little later the GR130 runs along the road for 0.9km - not the most exciting part of the walk but at least we can walk quickly and it is especially nice when we get back on a path again.

Oh, oh, another barranco.  This time the path looks a little uncertain - as in, 'is this it?' and 'is it safe?'  Nothing to do but go for it and see what happens. Of course, it is absolutely fine and as we get to the bottom and start the ascent up the other side, we see that the Cabildo have been busy clearing the path for us.
A third barranco welcomes us to the top with a simple but nonetheless dramatic wooden cross.

Now it is a completely easy-peasy path - lush green and a delight. A few special sights along the way such as a shrine with Mary Magdalene and several other figures including a man in a white coat and trilby hat. Uh?

Now we join the little road to Cueva de Agua where there is obviously some sensitive issue going on about who has a right to use the road.  We can only assume that those on foot are exempt from any restrictions.  Quite quickly this minor road joins the main road and I'm afraid it's road walking all the way to Santo Domingo - 2.9km.  Well, it's a chance to stride out and we quickly come into town. I have to say what a curious place Santo Domingo is, it can often resemble a film lot where everybody  has just left the scene for the day. As we walked through everything was closed, even its four bars.  But there are some very interesting side roads for those that want to explore the old part.

 

Well, that's it for 2010.  It has been a great year for walking on La Palma and we feel truly lucky to have been able to do it.   I hope many people will also be able to enjoy it in 2011.

Down to the Puerto de Garafia

We don't often find ourselves in the small town of Santo Domingo in the north west of La Palma, despite it being the capital of our municipality.  Usually, we are heading in the opposite direction.  But yesterday, in the small window between the 1st October and the middle of December, we made our annual pilgrimage to the Town Hall to pay homage and taxes like the good Garafianos that we are.  And while we were about it, took the opportunity of a little walk down to the old port, known as the Puerto de Garafia.   To the uninitiated, a port at Garafia sounds rather, well, grand.  To those that know the rocky coastline, it sounds rather, erm, ambitious.

At least though there is a road from Santo Domingo, past the football ground and cemetery, which takes you most of the way.  It used to be a rough, single track and only suitable for 4 x 4's and certainly not hire cars which are not insured off-road.  That said, we did once manage to suspend the Land Rover on 3 wheels over a deep hole.  (Don't remind me!)  Recently though, the road has been asphalted and widened slightly which makes the 3km drive a pleasant trip.
We also found that the car park at the end of the road has been re-surfaced and made to look as attractive as possible, when using asphalt and white lines.  Although the old drinks shack has disappeared, at least the water basin complete with operational water tap has been left - a good place to fill up water bottles or just rinse your hands!   However, we were the only car there yesterday so not exactly a crush of people, although a couple of walkers were striding out having come down the path from Santo Domingo.
If we were in any doubt at where to look for a good view, a sign drew us to the mirador (viewpoint) which faces north east.

Our main plan was to have a picnic down by the sea and with a good measure of luck, also swim.  I say luck because the west and north of the island were on alert for bad weather and high waves.  However, from the car park, it was hot and still but we know from our diving days in the UK that the sea from above can look very different when close up.  So, just to cover all options, we packed some bread, a tin of sardines, fruit, drinks and swimming gear into the rucksack.  Well, actually I forgot the sardines, but sometimes that's no bad thing.

As we wound our way down the old cobbled path, the view was just fantastic although admittedly, you would need to be fond of heights to enjoy standing at the edge.  And the sea started to look rather tantalizing.  Maybe we would swim after all!  And if we did, this is the little bay where we would plunge into the cool, chrystal clear waters.

As we approached the bottom there were more and more 'temporary residences' - wooden shacks and converted caves.  Even one place that was particularly well built and maybe a bar but with nobody else about, we didn't really expect it to be open.  Although at weekends in the summer, I can imagine it would be a fun place to chat with the locals. 

Nearing the bottom, we passed the old port buildings although sadly, they have all but fallen down now and only a few walls remain.   But small boats are still winched in and out of the water here.  A bit of a hands-on experience I imagine. 

By now, we realised that we wouldn't be swimming, we would just enjoy the 20 minute walk down, picnic and return.  We have swum and snorkelled here on two occasions before and absolutely loved it but the exit is not always easy.  During the summer, there is a ladder when it is low water - although it is only fixed at the top of it and so tends to sway with the waves.  At high water, you can use steps set into the rocks which is much easier.  

Once down almost to sea level, we had a little explore peeking in at the cave dwellings where boats were housed in some and in others, cooking facilities, a toilet and washbasin and even a baby's playpen.  On La Palma, it's a family affair and of course bbq's, being mandatory to any family gathering, are greatly in evidence.  

No bbq's today though, just the burning sun and we sought some shade of not so much a cave as an overhang and were extremely pleased of the comparative coolness.  From here, we could watch the waves crashing on the corner of the bay, although slightly too close for comfort on occasions.   

If the mighty Atlantic was doing its best to join us, all was apparently calm further out to sea and we could enjoy the tranquil view into the distance. 

Time to go and a steady walk back up the path to the car.  Now we had a lovely view inland and of the coastal-loving vegetation that doesn't seem to care what the weather does.  

  

What must it have been like in the old days when locals carried sacks of grain and supplies up from the port on their weary backs?  Or maybe it was a string of loaded mules picking their way up the path.  Doubtless, when they got to the top, they had to turn around and go back down for the next load.   I like to think that maybe they got to swim now and again.  Not the mules of course. 

GR131 group walk

If anyone is interested (and up to it), there is a group walk of one section of the GR131 this Sunday, 7th November.  It is from the Roque de Muchachos to El Time and then carrying on down to the beach at Tazacorte, literally from the top of the island to sea level.

It will take around 8 hours as there will be a stop for breakfast and lunch (bring your own picnic - there are no shops on the way!).  It is fairly tough (medium high) and although there are a few short uphill stretches, most of it is down hill so if you have knee problems it might not be the best walk for you.

What to bring? You will need a whole range of weather gear with you from cold weather, wet weather, hot sun and even your bathers in case there is time for a dip at Tazacorte.  When we did this walk a few years back with the group, it really was pretty cold and most people, including us, were wearing a woolly hat and gloves, though of course these were peeled off as we descended.

The meeting point is the Plaza Bujaz, San Pedro at 7 am from where a coach will take you to the top, then later collect you at Tazacorte and then bring you back to the start point.  There is a charge for this to cover costs.
You will need to enrol by Friday at 2pm and can do this by ringing Pedro on 609 850 336.  You might also want to check out the walking club link

If you don't want to go to San Pedro, the walk is planned to start at 9am at the top (probably at a lay by below the Roque where the GR131 finally leaves the road) so if you have a way to retrieve your car, then you might want to meet there, but you will need to let Pedro know.
If you do make it - don't forget to send us the pictures and let us know how it went.  All the best!

GR130 - Tijarafe to Los Llanos 14.6 km

This report didn't get published after we walked this section of the GR130 earlier this year (10th April,2010)  - so here we are!
We parked the car at the southern end of Tijarafe, opposite the bus stop where we had last finished walking from Puntagorda.  Having climbed into our walking uniform of boots and rucksacks, we grabbed our poles and set off along the pavement with a spring in our step and hopefully looking like real explorers.  Approximately thirty seconds later where the pavement ended, we were lost.  Did the trail follow the main road or did it go down the side road to our right?  The side road looked the most appealing and on walking down there we quickly found that it ended at a few large houses.  Maybe there was a secret path hidden behind the houses?  An elderly and jolly-looking lady had just come out of the front door of one of the houses and was coming down the path.  She was holding, high in the air, a large fish by its tail and I took the opportunity to ask her if this was the Camino Real, the GR130.  She grinned and nodded her head enthusiastically and said that she had no idea.  She would ask her daughter who was bound to know and so lady and fish returned to the house to find daughter.  When all three emerged again, the daughter kindly explained that we should return to the main road and follow it until we came to the 'grey' house (for which read 'breeze block') and we would see a sign indicating the route.
With such a interesting start, we set off again in great spirits.  And it was true, once we had walked fifty metres along the road, we spotted the sign along with our first cross of the day.

Passing behind the 'grey' house, we started to ascend along a little path which brought us to a narrow road where there were three bench seats named (presumably) after family members.  We crossed the lane with the sun shining above and glinting on the green grass underfoot.  Now we found ourselves above the road, walking along a little path and eventually on a gentle slope down into our first barranco.  Ah - unless things were about to change - this was lovely, easy going.  And surprise, surprise it didn't change.  This was the easiest barranco we have encountered so far and extremely pretty, lined with pine trees and the path covered in pine needles.  I would have liked to stay a little longer.

Climbing up the other side of the barranco, we had a lovely view back to Tijarafe and eventually we popped up at a little plaza.  I could imagine this would be a fun place but today, all was quiet and we disappeared down the far side of the plaza onto a small path.  On surfacing back at the road again a short time later, we were once again confused.  It looked as if there had been a rockfall on to the road and no signs were visible.  However, we took a chance (actually, there was no other option) and crossed the road into a small park to search for the signs.  Great  - we hadn't been here before!  Here we could picnic or bbq.  There were even toilets and - they were open.  Whatever next!

Now we were back on little paths and intriguingly passing right by people's front doors.  It was a wonderful insight in the lives of some Palmeros.  Sweet smelling washing hung out to dry, kids bikes, tree trunks for seats, and one little notice written in German which said (more or less), 'This tap is our tap on our patio.  Don't even think about it.'  Of course, I had walked on the patio to read what the notice said so had to beat a hasty retreat!   Down an even quieter lane, the residents had long gone.

Eventually, we arrived at something like civilization at La Punta.  Here there was a Spar and the sign told us we had walked 8.km from Tijarafe and still had 6.6km to go.  That seemed strange as we felt so near!  Never mind, onward. Over the road and then rising high above it on a steep little path which then flattened out and gave us a great view over the banana plantations and sea.

After 1 km of easy walking, the path came to a junction where it intersected the GR131.  The sign post here was almost comical with such an array of choices.  If we were at all unsure of directions and distances, then we only had to glance at the nearby new-style GR130 and GR131 signs which confirmed that it was 3.5km to Tazacorte and 14.4km to Roque de Muchachos and informed us that it was another 5.6 km to Los Llanos.  In fact, the old GR130 route used to take you into Tazacorte and we wondered for a moment if we should go down to Tazacorte but, no, we would continue to Los Llanos as planned.

Just the other side of this intersection we found the perfect place to eat.  In a delve in the rock there was a wooden bench and we sat down to eat our bocadillos and bananas, which the lizards shared, all with a wonderful view over Los Llanos. What a shame there was cloud cover which meant it was not the best photo (see website and scroll to section 7) - although it was still plenty hot enough, even with the clouds.

 Now began the descent down into the barranco de Las Angustias practically to sea level.  Oh - this was going to feel like a long way down on our little path!

barranco came ever more into sight and we could see that it was flowing with water.  This was extremely exciting as we haven't seen it flowing many times and it looked as if it could be quite deep.  We had to bide our time a little longer though as, just as we were considering if we dare take two bananas that were on the floor of the plantation just near the track, a man appeared.  'Take some bananas,' he called to us, in Spanish.  He must have read our minds.  We said that was very kind of him and how wonderful his plantation was and how much work it must be.  Oh yes, and for no money, or very little we were assured.  He then proceeded to lug half a trunk of bananas over to us.  We hurriedly explained that we didn't have the car with us, we were walking.  He looked at us as if we were mad.  He hadn't asked about a car, what was a car to do with him?  After several exchanges, we still hadn't managed to convince him that not being Palmeran weightlifters, we would need a car to transport around thirty kilos of bananas.  Whimps!  In the end, we managed to talk him down to about twenty bananas although of course he didn't want any money, whatever the case.
It was just after this that we completely lost the route and had to follow the road for about five minutes before we picked the sign up again.  The road is definitely not recommended for walkers as, despite being only just wide enough for two vehicles to pass and with many hairpin bends, it is a veritable mini Monte Carlo rally.  As a consequence, we walked very quickly!
Eventually, the path brought us to the lowest part of the road which ran alongside the barranco and we crossed the little footbridge over the flowing waters to the other side.

Now this was impressive stuff, although I am sure many people have seen the water much higher.  Anyway, we now only had 2.6km to go before Los Llanos.  But what was this - dangerous talk of swimming?  Mm, well there was somebody further up the ravine who was swimming in a natural pool of the flowing water and if I wasn't mistaken, he was starting to look a little alarmed at the thought of us joining him.  In the end we settled for a paddle where we were.

Maybe it was the fact that we stopped for quite a long time or maybe it was because our calf muscles were immersed in cold water or maybe ... well, whatever it was, that final ascent up to Los Llanos was hard going.  And of course the heat ... it felt like sitting right next to a 3 bar electric fire.  Yes, my head was undoubtedly alight and could probably have been seen from space.
Actually, I think it felt tougher than it should have been because the path doesn't zigzag.  This means that the sun zapped just one side of the body, without getting the chance to turn and get char grilled the other side. And there is no place to go for shade so the only alternative is to forge on.
Arriving in Los Llanos and passing along the curious side streets lined by little old low houses, all was forgiven.  Especially when we emerged into the leafy shade of the plaza as heroes.  

Star walkers complete the GR130 route around La Palma

Our huge congratulations to Christine of Star Trex, Jen and Bill, who all completed the GR130 route right around La Palma on Saturday, 2nd October.

Jen, Bill, Christine and Dave

It is a fantastic and impressive achievement - approximately 155 km along forest trails and volcano fields, pretty country paths and coastal ways, cobbled streets and deserted wilderness, ridiculously steep country lanes and not forgetting the numerous deep and rugged ravines to be traversed - completed in just ten days, with two rest days included.  To add to the constantly changing conditions underfoot and the scenery surrounding them, they also had challenges from up above with rain on the first day, then hot sun virtually all of the rest of the route and some thankfully slightly cooler weather towards the end.
Back up was provided by Dave with whom they stayed in phone contact and if the team were not actually walking directly to or from their accommodation, Dave was there to drop them off or pick them up.  Bailey was the fifth member of the team who did nothing but wag his tail, run around looking happy, bark once and sleep.
Very well done team - you are all stars!
Really, it was a privilege to meet them all and be a small part of their great challenge. They stayed with us here in Franceses for four nights and I am glad they had time to enjoy some of the facilities including the 'party port.'  They certainly deserved a sit down!

If you think you would like to walk the GR130 route on La Palma, either self-guided or with Christine, just send me an email or if you would like to walk in Tenerife with Christine, do drop into her website.  Apart from being a qualified mountain leader plus having walked extensively in the UK and spent eight weeks trekking in the Himalayas, she is a great guide and an inspirational person.

GR 130 - El Roque to Tijarafe 10.6 km

Spoilt for choice, we decided to walk from a little place called El Roque which is near Puntagorda in the west and sits rather conveniently at an intersection of the GR 130 where it crosses the main road. Not only was it convenient to park but it also has a beautiful bus stop!

El Roque sits behind the main road, so I feel we could be forgiven for not having noticed it in the past, but we were immediately impressed with its facilities – nothing less than a telecentro with internet connection. But that is not of course what we were there for. It seemed that music classes were also in progress as the lilting notes of a clarinet floated out onto the streets. And nice people nodded and smiled -what a good start!

We followed the little lane along – in fact we guessed that this had probably been the main road at one time – and congratulated ourselves on our good luck. The sun was shining, the lane quickly turned into a miniature cobbled street lined by interesting looking houses and we had all day to do the walk.

Within five minutes we were lost. And five minutes later were were lost again. This was not such a good start after all and we made many mutterings about the lack of a sign just where we needed it. Well, we would just have to guess that the route took us over a pile of sand which formed the building site of somebody's restoration project and sure enough – just where there was no fork in the path and nowhere else to go, there was the trusty red and white blaze confirming that we were in fact still en route.

Now the route seemed more obvious and we could follow wooden railings. Oh no, this wasn't it – this was up the famous dragon tree, we should have followed the unmarked track without railings.

In spite of a less than auspicious first half hour, it was a day for enjoying ourselves and the route provided an ever changing set of landscapes for us to walk in.

At one point, we were up in the pine forest walking high above the road, then we were down in the bottom of a barranco, clambering over rocks and next walking along a sunny flower-lined path. It was all glorious.

Then there were places with an accumulation or even just a scattering of houses. David and I are of course fascinated by all things building and since the GR 130 is lined in parts by houses, there was plenty for us to admire. And otherwise. There are the old stone dwellings, some of them sadly giving way to collapse, flat roofed houses with many extensions of various sorts, grand Canarian houses in the middle of nowhere and all styles in between.

It wasn't until we had been on the route for around three hours and enjoyed a leisurely picnic lunch that we realised we had in fact been dawdling and if we didn't get a move on, we would miss our bus in Tijarafe, the idea being that we would catch the bus back to our start point of El Roque. And being a Saturday, buses are fairly few and far between.

Luckily, the route was now much easier and what could be called almost flat – well, for La Palma anyway! Now we contented ourselves to comment and admire on the move - a sweet kitten, an intricately carved door, potatoes growing in super-neat lines, a tree in an orchard dripping with a hundred lemons, an industrial tank with Koi carp in it, huge (and I mean huge) dandelion clocks growing at the side of the path, terraces filled with lush-looking avocado trees and how the GR 130 signs were now rapidly revealing that we only had 6.3 km, 4.8 km, 2.4 km, 1.1 km to walk to Tijarafe.

At this rate we would even have time for a cold beer before the bus came!

Well, in actual fact, there was just time to get lost again. Our suspicions that we were now 'off route' were confirmed when we passed two more junctions in the track with no indication of where to go. But by now we could see Tijarafe very close by and we just followed our noses, practically leaping up a rough old path, half covered in long grass, incentive firing our boots into action.

Ah, time for a beer after all and be ready for the bus whose expected arrival we noted was 'approximate.' Happily, we were there waiting when it arrived almost ten minutes early.

(This post is imported from our Finca Franceses blogspot so that the Gr's are all together!  It was walked 14th April, 2010. )

GR130 - El Tablado to Santo Domingo 13.3 km

  For a change, we decided that we would not walk from the house to El Tablado on the GR130 - that would be too obvious.  No, we would start our walk at Roque Faro, go down the LP 9.1, thereby joining the GR130 at El Tablado.

  An early start was needed to give us at least some time without the sun and at 6.50 a.m. the only signs of  life in Roque Faro apart from us was the bread man and the moon.  Actually, it was still laughably dark (and I did laugh) and it was only with the help of the moon that we were able to pick our way down the path.  As we wound our way down from Roque Faro at 1,000 metres above sea level towards El Tablado at around 360 metres the light gently grew and it was a brilliant experience to walk through the wooded paths with the growing dawn. 

  Arriving in El Tablado via an old stone path that runs down by the side of the restaurant El Moral, the few residents were beginning to start the day, watering the little plots of vegetables being the norm.  It was great to be among all the little houses that we can see from our own house, just 1.34 km away as the crow flies! 

 Passing by the church, the path conveniently deposited us right at the signpost for the GR 130 - unfortunately not one of the newer ones with the distances but none-the-less, a clear indication as to where to go.  And so off we set on the 'walk proper' - now we were on the GR130 and our main quest for the day. Walking along a pretty little cobbled path, we were soon leaving the picturesque El Tablado behind us.

We passed the much-photographed ancient drago tree (see website) and were now truly in the open, overlooking the impressive north coast with its roller-coaster of ravines.  From here, we could see the walking path undulating its way across the north but our final destination was some distance beyond the final hill, out of sight.  There was a long way to go!

We began the zig-zag trek down the Barranco Fagundo which lies between El Tablado and Don Pedro which, according to the Rother Walking Guide, is the finest on the island.  There were certainly more than a few spectacular sights along the way such as looking back over the old port village of La Fajana and spectacular coastline you would never normally see.  And the curious overhangs and fascinating strata made me wish that I knew more about geology so that I could appreciate it even more!  

After an hour of fairly careful walking due to the nature of the dry path, we came to the rock-strewn bottom of the barranco where we left the GR130 route for a detour to the beach.  You can read about it on our finca franceses blog but on reflection, we would have preferred to do it (if at all) as a stand alone exercise rather than as part of a longish walk. 

Continuing up the other side of the barranco, the path was good but steep enough in places and it was a case of a steady climb in the growing heat.  

  Along the way, we were rewarding with a mirador as we got higher and higher and then another with table and bench seating plus an interesting (and intact) information board. Oh, and still another 1.5 kilometres to Don Pedro - how did that happen!

The final path into Don Pedro was pretty, filled with greenery and nothing more than a slope which we attacked with gusto.  Aren't way points great for that boost of energy!  Not of course that we would find anything in Don Pedro apart from the potential of a herd of goats being shepherded through, a couple of resident dogs and a few elderly Santanas which will probably never move again.  So, without pausing, we carried on to the next stage, a length of 8.8 km.  Santo Domingo - here we come!

  At first the going was easy with a few interesting houses to pass by and, in between the bushes, glimpses of the super-barren land of Juan Adalid in the distance - being August, this rather desolate area of La Palma was the colour of a desert rather than lush green of winter.  However, our path took us down into woodland with some short, quite steep parts and a few oddities such as a cave with its own GR130 blaze on the door -  I think the paint person was having some fun!  Perhaps that's what brought on our song of the day, 'The Cherokees are after me .... there's a hidden cave ... two wheels on my wagon ...'  (You had to be there.)

But of course, going down means only one thing and we were soon heading upwards again, this time to the highest part of the whole of the GR130 across the north at nearly 600m. 

After some easier walking, we were pleased to see the wind turbines appear in the distant and then, quite suddenly, the head of one appeared over the bushes.  Five minutes later we were walking right by them. 

 

  Our next sign revealed that it was 5.8km to go to Santo Domingo and the open trails stretched out in front of us.  A generous sprinkling of GR130 signs kept us informed how we were doing and the occasional house in a supremely remote location kept us puzzled.  Low cloud started to form which looked quite ethereal but more usefully helped keep some of the heat at bay.  

  Unfortunately, it was just after this photo that the camera decided not to work any more.  Oh no!  Because we had just come to 'the best' cave we have ever seen, where you could easily house 50 people.  And then old stone washing basins and a spring where we refilled our water bottles, having already drunk 1.5 litres each.  Ow, ow ... no camera and the phone camera decided not to work either.  It was a conspiracy!   Oh well, a good excuse to come back in winter and do it all again when everything is greener.  (And it transpired I had taken 130 photos already.)

  At one point after this, we realised we had lost the trail as we saw the burgundy/gold sign in a parallel place where we weren't.  We knew where we must have gone wrong but the thought of having to retrace our steps did not fill us with glee.  Luckily however, we managed to find a link to get us back on route - phew!  

  A rough track now took us further and further over the hills with a surprise scattering of houses cunningly located in the middle of nowhere.  But eventually, we were coming back to civilization along a concrete road.  Now we just had that one last little barranco to traverse before arriving in Santo Domingo.  And whilst it is something of an unwanted surprise if you are not expecting it at the end of a long walk, it really is quite small and the goats in their little caves always make it something of a treat.  It really is like going back in time.

We shall return!

Report on Walking Festival

Just a quick post here to say that the Walking Festival was truly excellent - well done the organisers!  We went along on the Saturday morning and were really surprised to see the number of stands and amount of interest generated.

Some were not linked to walking admittedly and were rather more of the handicraft nature, including cheeses and wines from La Palma, but the majority were walking-based offering boots, clothing, maps and a few natty gismos.   And of course, being La Palma, it was a general party atmosphere.
Also, there were rope slides for the younger ones and in the evening more entertainment, not that we stayed around for that.

Anyway, apart from buying a few goodies at the stalls and getting a free straw hat in bright green (thanks Binter), I was really interested to make contact with one of the walking groups - http://www.caminanteselatajo.es  Whilst chatting to the two people manning the stall, I noticed a booklet entitled 'Vuelta a la Isla por el Camino Real de la Costa' ie the GR130 route, along with an accompanying DVD for a joint price of 10 euros.   Ooh exciting, so I had to have that especially as I didn't know such a thing existed.
The booklet is beautifully presented and in full colour and I was rather 'tickled' with their neat idea of walking the GR130. What they did, in October 2008, was to split the route up into 10 sections and in one day, different groups each walked a section of their choice.  The co-coordinator of the whole thing drove round the island, catching up with the groups as they went, taking a photo with them.  Where possible, he walked a little of the route with them.  Apparently, one of the walkers was in a bit of a rush as he was playing in a game of football later in the day.  And then there was our old friend Tabares, of cigar fame - I didn't mention the wine bit in an earlier post - but I read that a small bottle of wine was still an integral part of his walking practice!  Each group also took a group photo at precisely 11 am.  In total there were 121 walkers which shows great support for the idea.
The DVD was a well presented slideshow of photos taken by the groups as they walked around the island.  I'm not sure how many photos there were - a lot!  But it was good fun to watch and took around an hour to see the whole thing.  An hour to walk the GR130 - not bad .. and very entertaining see how other people got on.  
Anyone wanting a copy of the booklet and DVD can contact me directly or the club themselves.