Another hidden trail

Our mission was to seek and enjoy.  To go where no man had been before ... well, not recently anyway.
And that's what walking on La Palma is all about - not just the host of marked trails such as the famous GR130 and GR131 - but also the hidden, 'secret' routes.  And we were just itching to get off the beaten track and explore.  After all, one of the frustrating things is seeing interesting sights such as caves or wooden-roofed dwellings but only being able to look from a distance.  Just how did you get to them? 
Today our question was answered.
We took the GR130 route as usual from Franceses but headed off down an unmarked side track that we had noticed several times before.  The path passed by a couple of old dwellings and then a prettier house surrounded by geraniums and palm trees.  Abandoned or not ... it's sometimes difficult to tell!

We continued down the path which eventually finished in a field.  Shame, but the view was nice, overlooking the sea.  Undeterred though, we decided to walk along the side of the field where the earth was hard-packed and clearly not being dug over for vegetables.  At the end of the field was a rough construction, a sort of lean-to, and at the other side of this in the shade, sat an elderly gentleman.
We apologised profusely, in case we had trespassed in any way.  He just took a long puff on his pipe and declared that we were very welcome to enjoy the scenery - 'Why not!' 
After chatting a while and then exchanging friendly farewells, we made our way back up the path and continued along the GR130 again.  Now another side path appeared and once more we diverted down it.  This is what we were looking for.

Tucked away at the end of the path, we came across what was practically an encampment of little dwellings all made of stone and with wooden roofs.  These are so emblematic of the area of Garafia in the north of La Palma and the precursor to houses such as our own Casita.  Would anybody be at home to make us a cup of tea though?

Oh well, at least there was fresh mountain water from a natural spring not too far away, although practically tucked out of sight under a bush.  But now we know where and how to look for the tell-tale signs of springs, they are quite easy to find!
However, the path seemed to have petered out here.  Our natural inclincation was to try and head on further down as that was the direction in which we were going.  But then of course there was a path which ran along back of the house.  And surprise, surprise, it joined up with the first path we had been on. 
Joy.

A great day to be on the GR130 in Franceses

Today was a red letter day for us and one we have been looking forward to for some months.  You see, the GR130 has been moved.  And not just moved but moved to come right along the path just below our finca in Franceses.  Yey!!

GR130 signpost 50 m from us

In September last year, I posted 'An Old Path in Franceses gets a New Look' but little did we know that this path was to become part of the GR130.  Then, just before Christmas, lo and behold the white over red blazes appeared, painted on rocks and all became clear - the GR130 was being re-routed right by us with the result that a 1km walk along the road to La Fajana is now no longer part of the route.  That really is an improvement!  And of course, for us it is perfect as walkers only need to leave the GR130 at this point where the above photo was taken and head up the 9.1 in the direction of Roque Faro for 50 metres, and they arrive at our doorstep.  Thank you Cabildo for our Christmas present!
But the intrigue didn't end there.  In our super-sleuth mode, we noticed that holes had been dug at junctions in the path.  Ah, posts then ...

I decided that I wouldn't put this in the blog until the posts were put in and I could put some photos with it.  Of course this did cause me to wonder what I would do if putting the posts in became delayed, or never happened.  But this week - they went in.  Even the path leading up to our finca was not forgotten and now we have the lot - the original lovely old wooden sign that says 'Las Tierras,' the white over red blaze (just visible in the photo) and a GR130 walking sign.

Pointing the way along the new route

And the spring flowers were out too.  Colour me happy!

Down to the Puerto de Garafia

We don't often find ourselves in the small town of Santo Domingo in the north west of La Palma, despite it being the capital of our municipality.  Usually, we are heading in the opposite direction.  But yesterday, in the small window between the 1st October and the middle of December, we made our annual pilgrimage to the Town Hall to pay homage and taxes like the good Garafianos that we are.  And while we were about it, took the opportunity of a little walk down to the old port, known as the Puerto de Garafia.   To the uninitiated, a port at Garafia sounds rather, well, grand.  To those that know the rocky coastline, it sounds rather, erm, ambitious.

At least though there is a road from Santo Domingo, past the football ground and cemetery, which takes you most of the way.  It used to be a rough, single track and only suitable for 4 x 4's and certainly not hire cars which are not insured off-road.  That said, we did once manage to suspend the Land Rover on 3 wheels over a deep hole.  (Don't remind me!)  Recently though, the road has been asphalted and widened slightly which makes the 3km drive a pleasant trip.
We also found that the car park at the end of the road has been re-surfaced and made to look as attractive as possible, when using asphalt and white lines.  Although the old drinks shack has disappeared, at least the water basin complete with operational water tap has been left - a good place to fill up water bottles or just rinse your hands!   However, we were the only car there yesterday so not exactly a crush of people, although a couple of walkers were striding out having come down the path from Santo Domingo.
If we were in any doubt at where to look for a good view, a sign drew us to the mirador (viewpoint) which faces north east.

Our main plan was to have a picnic down by the sea and with a good measure of luck, also swim.  I say luck because the west and north of the island were on alert for bad weather and high waves.  However, from the car park, it was hot and still but we know from our diving days in the UK that the sea from above can look very different when close up.  So, just to cover all options, we packed some bread, a tin of sardines, fruit, drinks and swimming gear into the rucksack.  Well, actually I forgot the sardines, but sometimes that's no bad thing.

As we wound our way down the old cobbled path, the view was just fantastic although admittedly, you would need to be fond of heights to enjoy standing at the edge.  And the sea started to look rather tantalizing.  Maybe we would swim after all!  And if we did, this is the little bay where we would plunge into the cool, chrystal clear waters.

As we approached the bottom there were more and more 'temporary residences' - wooden shacks and converted caves.  Even one place that was particularly well built and maybe a bar but with nobody else about, we didn't really expect it to be open.  Although at weekends in the summer, I can imagine it would be a fun place to chat with the locals. 

Nearing the bottom, we passed the old port buildings although sadly, they have all but fallen down now and only a few walls remain.   But small boats are still winched in and out of the water here.  A bit of a hands-on experience I imagine. 

By now, we realised that we wouldn't be swimming, we would just enjoy the 20 minute walk down, picnic and return.  We have swum and snorkelled here on two occasions before and absolutely loved it but the exit is not always easy.  During the summer, there is a ladder when it is low water - although it is only fixed at the top of it and so tends to sway with the waves.  At high water, you can use steps set into the rocks which is much easier.  

Once down almost to sea level, we had a little explore peeking in at the cave dwellings where boats were housed in some and in others, cooking facilities, a toilet and washbasin and even a baby's playpen.  On La Palma, it's a family affair and of course bbq's, being mandatory to any family gathering, are greatly in evidence.  

No bbq's today though, just the burning sun and we sought some shade of not so much a cave as an overhang and were extremely pleased of the comparative coolness.  From here, we could watch the waves crashing on the corner of the bay, although slightly too close for comfort on occasions.   

If the mighty Atlantic was doing its best to join us, all was apparently calm further out to sea and we could enjoy the tranquil view into the distance. 

Time to go and a steady walk back up the path to the car.  Now we had a lovely view inland and of the coastal-loving vegetation that doesn't seem to care what the weather does.  

  

What must it have been like in the old days when locals carried sacks of grain and supplies up from the port on their weary backs?  Or maybe it was a string of loaded mules picking their way up the path.  Doubtless, when they got to the top, they had to turn around and go back down for the next load.   I like to think that maybe they got to swim now and again.  Not the mules of course. 

GR130 - El Tablado to Santo Domingo 13.3 km

  For a change, we decided that we would not walk from the house to El Tablado on the GR130 - that would be too obvious.  No, we would start our walk at Roque Faro, go down the LP 9.1, thereby joining the GR130 at El Tablado.

  An early start was needed to give us at least some time without the sun and at 6.50 a.m. the only signs of  life in Roque Faro apart from us was the bread man and the moon.  Actually, it was still laughably dark (and I did laugh) and it was only with the help of the moon that we were able to pick our way down the path.  As we wound our way down from Roque Faro at 1,000 metres above sea level towards El Tablado at around 360 metres the light gently grew and it was a brilliant experience to walk through the wooded paths with the growing dawn. 

  Arriving in El Tablado via an old stone path that runs down by the side of the restaurant El Moral, the few residents were beginning to start the day, watering the little plots of vegetables being the norm.  It was great to be among all the little houses that we can see from our own house, just 1.34 km away as the crow flies! 

 Passing by the church, the path conveniently deposited us right at the signpost for the GR 130 - unfortunately not one of the newer ones with the distances but none-the-less, a clear indication as to where to go.  And so off we set on the 'walk proper' - now we were on the GR130 and our main quest for the day. Walking along a pretty little cobbled path, we were soon leaving the picturesque El Tablado behind us.

We passed the much-photographed ancient drago tree (see website) and were now truly in the open, overlooking the impressive north coast with its roller-coaster of ravines.  From here, we could see the walking path undulating its way across the north but our final destination was some distance beyond the final hill, out of sight.  There was a long way to go!

We began the zig-zag trek down the Barranco Fagundo which lies between El Tablado and Don Pedro which, according to the Rother Walking Guide, is the finest on the island.  There were certainly more than a few spectacular sights along the way such as looking back over the old port village of La Fajana and spectacular coastline you would never normally see.  And the curious overhangs and fascinating strata made me wish that I knew more about geology so that I could appreciate it even more!  

After an hour of fairly careful walking due to the nature of the dry path, we came to the rock-strewn bottom of the barranco where we left the GR130 route for a detour to the beach.  You can read about it on our finca franceses blog but on reflection, we would have preferred to do it (if at all) as a stand alone exercise rather than as part of a longish walk. 

Continuing up the other side of the barranco, the path was good but steep enough in places and it was a case of a steady climb in the growing heat.  

  Along the way, we were rewarding with a mirador as we got higher and higher and then another with table and bench seating plus an interesting (and intact) information board. Oh, and still another 1.5 kilometres to Don Pedro - how did that happen!

The final path into Don Pedro was pretty, filled with greenery and nothing more than a slope which we attacked with gusto.  Aren't way points great for that boost of energy!  Not of course that we would find anything in Don Pedro apart from the potential of a herd of goats being shepherded through, a couple of resident dogs and a few elderly Santanas which will probably never move again.  So, without pausing, we carried on to the next stage, a length of 8.8 km.  Santo Domingo - here we come!

  At first the going was easy with a few interesting houses to pass by and, in between the bushes, glimpses of the super-barren land of Juan Adalid in the distance - being August, this rather desolate area of La Palma was the colour of a desert rather than lush green of winter.  However, our path took us down into woodland with some short, quite steep parts and a few oddities such as a cave with its own GR130 blaze on the door -  I think the paint person was having some fun!  Perhaps that's what brought on our song of the day, 'The Cherokees are after me .... there's a hidden cave ... two wheels on my wagon ...'  (You had to be there.)

But of course, going down means only one thing and we were soon heading upwards again, this time to the highest part of the whole of the GR130 across the north at nearly 600m. 

After some easier walking, we were pleased to see the wind turbines appear in the distant and then, quite suddenly, the head of one appeared over the bushes.  Five minutes later we were walking right by them. 

 

  Our next sign revealed that it was 5.8km to go to Santo Domingo and the open trails stretched out in front of us.  A generous sprinkling of GR130 signs kept us informed how we were doing and the occasional house in a supremely remote location kept us puzzled.  Low cloud started to form which looked quite ethereal but more usefully helped keep some of the heat at bay.  

  Unfortunately, it was just after this photo that the camera decided not to work any more.  Oh no!  Because we had just come to 'the best' cave we have ever seen, where you could easily house 50 people.  And then old stone washing basins and a spring where we refilled our water bottles, having already drunk 1.5 litres each.  Ow, ow ... no camera and the phone camera decided not to work either.  It was a conspiracy!   Oh well, a good excuse to come back in winter and do it all again when everything is greener.  (And it transpired I had taken 130 photos already.)

  At one point after this, we realised we had lost the trail as we saw the burgundy/gold sign in a parallel place where we weren't.  We knew where we must have gone wrong but the thought of having to retrace our steps did not fill us with glee.  Luckily however, we managed to find a link to get us back on route - phew!  

  A rough track now took us further and further over the hills with a surprise scattering of houses cunningly located in the middle of nowhere.  But eventually, we were coming back to civilization along a concrete road.  Now we just had that one last little barranco to traverse before arriving in Santo Domingo.  And whilst it is something of an unwanted surprise if you are not expecting it at the end of a long walk, it really is quite small and the goats in their little caves always make it something of a treat.  It really is like going back in time.

We shall return!

Homeground

Sunday morning ... what do you do? Go for a little stroll of course.

I know I am completely biased but one of my favourite short walks is right on our doorstep. There is nothing finer than to set off to the village for a walk and as it happens, this is also part of the GR130.
We head off down the donkey track at the side of the finca and in just seven minutes, we arrive at this point in the photo where the path joins the ashfalt La Fajana road.


Heading up the road and just a couple of minutes later, the GR130 takes us off the road again, to go down a narrow concreted track. This is the walking sign at this point -

We follow this path along and after another five or so minutes it brings us to what we call the 'dingly dell' - and I am in paradise. It's a place that time forgot - a little hollow, or dell, with palm trees, dragon trees and tiny dwellings with wooden roofs. It looks like it has long been deserted and I often think I would like to go for a wander around in it but you can't help but notice the tidy rows of corn and potatoes growing in the miniature fields. If the houses have been left to their own devices, the land is certainly being tended to.
Heading back up the other side of the dell, we pass a natural spring in the rocks where water is collected in a stone pool. The dwellings might have been basic but they had running water, albeit of the outside variety.


Now we pop back up on the road and the area of Los Machines, this being the nearest thing we have to a village. (There isn't an actual village of Franceses - it is an area incorporating Las Tierras, Los Machines, Los Castros and the port village of La Fajana.) The little village school is here along with what you might laughingly call the pub (old men playing dominoes), the old peoples' home, the bus stop (although the bus will obligingly stop wherever you like) and the old school which is now used for various village type pursuits (loom weaving, internet and laying out of the recently deceased prior to internment in the cemetery of Franceses). But all oddities aside, it is the crazy width of the village street I love most. I mean - it's OK for two donkeys passing, but two cars - oh no, no, no.



Now here's the catch - if you are walking the GR130 in an anti-clockwise direction around La Palma, you are almost sure to miss out on the dingly dell. If you are walking in a clockwise direction, fine, you will see the nice big GR130 walking sign as in the second photo above. But there is nothing to tell you from the other direction and you will end up walking on the road. Whilst this will take you past the village shop which also doubles as a bar (open indeterminate times but usually on request) you will now have completely lost the GR130.
So, just to make sure, here's what you do - when heading east-west, ie from Barlovento direction, come through the narrow village street and after the last building and opposite the current school (which has a lovely mural painted by the children),immediately dive off the road. You will now find yourself in the dingliest dell you ever saw. Look out for the spring on your left not far down - and no picking of vegetables!