The Ancient Laurisilva forest of Los Tilos, La Palma

It seems like a very long time since we 'hit the trail' and so, by way of mixing a walk with a little education, we decided upon a visit to the Los Tilos Visitor Centre and a walk through the ancient Laurisilva Forest, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve.

Although it's not so long since we were at the Centre, a quick (or long) visit is a very good reminder as to what this walk is all about because it is not just your average a to b walk with some good views along the way. No, this is the sort of walk that takes you back in history - to something like the Tertiary age millions of years ago. After that, most laurisilva forests disappeared except in Madiera, the Azores and the Canary Islands.  Even then, the laurisilva forest of Los Tilos in La Palma is rather special as it is the best example in the Canary Islands.
So who were we to begrudge a few steps (and there are rather a lot) up through the forest as we headed to the Mirador de las Barandas?  Quite.  And of course there are some flat bits. 

Just as we were beginning to think that the steps went on forever, it was with some surprise that we suddenly reached our first way-point of the Mirador de la Banaderos some 40 minutes from the start.  Here, a selection of rustic picnic tables invited us for a sit down in the shade or a drink at the nearby water fountain.  But no, a look at the view and then onward.

After the ascent to the mirador, the route was much kinder in the form of a pretty forest track, lined with the gigantic ferns that Los Tilos is so famous for. 

In fact, each fern was easily as tall and wide as us so it really was a walk in the land of the giants.  

One thing I love about the walks on La Palma is not just the challenge, the views and the interest value - but also seeing the 'signs through the ages.'  This route, along with many walks on La Palma, has recently been re-signposted and is now designated as the PR-LP 9.1 and it is almost always very easy to follow. Along with the posts, there are still one or two of the rustic old signs and if you peer into the undergrowth at the occasional junction, then you will most likely spot the walking blaze to confirm that you are literally on track or the painted 'X' sign to tell you that this is not the way to go. The new signs for the walks don't look at all out of place and are very clear.

Great though to just wander along the path and enjoy the views, especially on a bright and sunny day.  But also good to see that, if the weather is less kind, there are some man-made caves which did look inviting. 

And then we got to the fun bit - probably what you least expect in a forest - a water gallery, pumping station and a railway train to play with.  OK, the train part isn't there any more apart from the old dolly but the tracks certainly are, along with the wheels which still run up and down. Oh yes ... we did!

After that bit of excitement, it was a short ascent along the forest trail again before reaching open ground and the view of La Laguna - the largest reservoir in the Canaries.  Here it seemed that all manner of different things were growing together, including cactus, apple trees and some wonderful fungi that reminded me of chocolate profiteroles piled up. 

After this, we were into open farmland with the forest behind us and La Laguna growing steadily closer.  Good to know that once at La Laguna we could pause for an ice-cream at the restaurant Las Goteras or if needs get a taxi into Barlovento.  But no, best keep on walking towards the town where we would catch the bus back to our start point.  

* This walk forms part of our luggage-transported, self-guided walking holiday on La Palma. 

A short walk through the woods

Step by step, La Palma is improving all of its 1000km + of trails and tracks around the island.  It's a mammoth task of course, not just clearing and marking the paths but maintaining them as well.  And I am happy to say that the vast majority of the work has been completed and our walkers are mightily impressed with the walks on La Palma and how clearly they are marked.
However, it seems that even the smallest paths have not been forgotten and just last week we discovered that the path between Hotel Romantica and the town of Barlovento in the north east of La Palma has been reclaimed.

It is a very short stretch admittedly and only takes around 7 minutes, but it is immensely better than walking on the road which not only takes longer but is less than ideal with no footpath. The result is that walkers and hotel guests can enjoy walking on this small woodland trail between the hotel and the GR130 route around La Palma as it crosses through Barlovento town with its shops and many facilities. 
And I must say, it is surprising how even the shortest little trail can be a bit of fun - and don't forget to watch out for the selection of pygmy chickens and cockerels that inhabit the woods.

Self-guided walks on La Palma

For the last few years, we've been increasingly involved in not just holiday accommodation but also walking holidays.  Mind you, I suppose you could say that ever since we started to rent out accommodation on La Palma, we've been involved in walking on the island both for our own personal enjoyment and as a source of information and advice to guests.

 

And now we are finding that guests - those who are into walking and let's not forget that not everybody is - are looking for self-guided walking holidays on a more organised basis.
So ... by popular demand ... we are pleased to be able to offer two types of walking holiday on La Palma.

 Firstly, there is the two-centre option where your accommodation is at the bed and breakfast here at the finca in Franceses, the north of La Palma and then at a self-catering apartment in Tazacorte.  A day-by-day walking plan is provided along with full route descriptions and map. 

 Secondly, there is the Camino Real option, walking the GR130 route from Barlovento in the north east of La Palma right round the island to the south west at Tazacorte.  Full route notes are supplied and luggage is transported to each accommodation.

We have certainly enjoyed doing all the walks that we suggest and provide information for.  I hope you will too.
Contact us for more details! 

What is the Camino Real all about?

 Sometime last year, with the restoration of the finca long completed and the usual maintenance jobs being well in hand, we decided it was high time to hit the trail and walk the sections of the GR130 route that we had so far not covered, particularly in the south.  Since then I'm pleased to say that we have not only walked every section but re-walked it in places meaning that we have done much of it in both directions.

 And it was for this reason that we set up this blog dedicated to walking on La Palma to go with our two other blogs Living La Palma and Holiday La Palma.

However, some walkers may not be aware that our website has an even greater host of information on walking each section of the GR130 so we are going to drop a few sections in here, starting with what the GR130 is all about.  Here goes! 

The La Palma GR 130 is a magnificent route which goes right around La Palma and is approximately 155 km in length.      

It takes between one and two weeks to complete in its entirety. To walk the whole of the GR130 is the supreme challenge - The Palmathon!     

 The majority of the route is the historic Camino Real or Royal Way which was used by muleteers and people travelling on foot or horseback between the villages and towns of the island. 

The route is generally very well marked with either signposts or the white over red blaze.

As you would expect on such a beautiful island, spectacular scenery comes as standard.  However, the constant changes - from cliff top paths to rocky ravines, pine forests trails to hidden hamlets, cobbled paths and tracks through banana plantations - will give you an amazing experience which you will remember forever.  Walking on La Palma really is a special experience. 

 You can start and end the circuit wherever you choose, walk in  a clockwise or anti-clockwise direction - there are no right or wrongs.  How you split up the route is probably the hotest debate around here!  This really depends on your walking ability but you will also need to bear in mind your accommodation as La Palma is not filled with hotels, hostels and bed and breakfast accommodation on every corner, especially if you are staying for just one night.  Generally, you will need to pre-book and we are always very happy to help with bookings for the best/easiest/most economical places to stay around the island.   

 If you don't want to walk the entire route right around La Palma, we recommend the north and north west (Barlovento to Los Llanos) as being the most scenic. 

Happy walking!